Olds Achieva day at the Test & Tune

[art leong]

Originally Posted by Robert Swartz

Ed,

At present, we don't have a way to tune the car. The ECM still has complete control. What I ran into, we were attempting to vary the shift points. It would shift at 6200 rpm in spite of what we did.

That's something I don't have is an ability to make tuning changes to the ECM. I don't know of any chips for these cars. An avenue I haven't explored deeply, yet.

Thanks for the burnout tips, guys. Until I get the DR's on it, that's really not an issue. Does give me something to work on.

I wouldn't go for the DR's. I have never run them. But know a lot that have. And mostly it was a waste of money. Unless rules make you run DR's Slicks are a whole lot better.

[Tod Lane]

A couple thoughts Bob.
Even with the water moved toward the starting line the actual start line prep was the same as always.
The air was noticably better,cooler and less humid.
The passes I made in the car I never tried a burn out but I did manage a couple lets call them dry hops for the lack of a better term, it still spun launching off dead idle, pushing it to 1200, or completely loading it to maybe2300.
It felt like it spun for20-30 feet , the more launch rpm the longer it seemed to spin.
I think the better air=more hp which caused the wheel spin and netted slower times. Hot laps probably contributed as well

[Ed Wright]

Is the ECM case sheet metal or cast alum?

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Is the ECM case sheet metal or cast alum?

Ed, it's the sheet metal case.

Art, I'm using the DR's for now, because of wheel size limitation. All the good low profile slicks are in 13 inch sizes. With this car, they started building them with the larger front brakes, 13" wheels don't fit without converting to earlier brakes. Also, the 120k engine doesn't make a ton of hp. With this transmission, don't know how cost effective making a set of lower gears would be at present. If we keep the car. Start working toward making some real power. This will become a necessisity. The tires are an easy change.

The next option, in my playbook, is a header. A guy in neighboring Ohio makes a nice one. Other than a way to tune it, as well as start to look at how to work with the suspension. I want to stiffen the rear. Haven't really figured out what I can do converterwise, yet. After that, it's time to go into the motor.

[Ed Wright]

That will be a plug- in chip. The flash memory boxes are at least part cast alum. If you want to get me the fore letter I.D. Code from the top of the factory Memcal ("chip") I will see if I have any info about it. That code will be four Capitol letters beginning with an A, B, or a C.

[nickh]

Robert how much have you experimented with what you are launching at? Once you get the drag radials on there you will have to find that sweet spot between spin and bog. Take good notes and log everything you are doing.

How are you tracking the weather when you run?

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by nickh

Robert how much have you experimented with what you are launching at? Once you get the drag radials on there you will have to find that sweet spot between spin and bog. Take good notes and log everything you are doing.

How are you tracking the weather when you run?

Nick,

Yes, we've played with different launch methods. This car launches like a turd. 60 ft times are in the 2.5 range. Like Tod mentioned, it was cooler and much less humid this past weekend than it's been when we've previously run the car. First time we've ever experienced tire spin!

Honestly, it doesn't seem to matter whether you stall the converter or leave off idle. It seems to run the same ET's. We don't have a weather station, we've been tracking the weather through a smartphone. Yes, we have been keeping a logbook. Will confess, we didn't take good notes this weekend.

Yes, am sure the DR's will change the charactor of the car a bit, I hope.

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

That will be a plug- in chip. The flash memory boxes are at least part cast alum. If you want to get me the fore letter I.D. Code from the top of the factory Memcal ("chip") I will see if I have any info about it. That code will be four Capitol letters beginning with an A, B, or a C.

Ed,

I'll jerk the computer out in a couple days. already locked the garage for the nite. Got to get up early for work. May have a towing job after work tomorrow. What can you do to these ECM's? Replace the chip? Is the number on top of the box or do I need to open it up?