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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nashville N.C.
Posts: 506
Likes: 4
Liked 101 Times in 27 Posts
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Save your money, sit back and wait----you will know the right time to jump on a complete ready to go car........most likely from a frustrated racer who wants to sell without thinking.........take it from a pro-frustrated racer who has made all the mistakes.
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NHRA AND IHRA STOCK ELIMINATOR 2772 |
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#2 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Punta Gorda Isles, Fl.
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 3,420
Liked 795 Times in 210 Posts
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Skills:
It all boils down to " how fast do you want to go" in a Stock Elim. car ?? If you do not mind 13 seconds & slower, you can buy a 80 Malibu, it's either U or V /SA right here from N.J. for like $8,000. You probably can find an open trailer for $2500. That leaves you with a tow vehicle, you can probably find a nice used Suburban for $6-8 grand. So i'd say you can be rock n rollin for under $20k. If your looking for a tow vehicle i might have one for you. Pistol Pete 1374 I/SA |
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#3 |
Live Reporter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Dripping Springs, Tx
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 186
Liked 520 Times in 132 Posts
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I found out the hard way after buying my car. Its not just the initial expense its everything after that. I would be scared to add up everything I've spent on my car and mine is miles from being as nice or competitive as other cars.
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Ed Carpenter 2005 Chevy Cobalt A/SM Race Engine Development |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 641
Likes: 90
Liked 552 Times in 96 Posts
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Like any hobby, you can try to "keep up with the Joneses" or you can make your hobby fit within your means. As others have said before, you don't need huge toterhomes, RV's, stacker trailers. A simple pickup and open trailer will get you there just fine. Do an annual budget and determine how much you have to spend on your racing operation, then limit your racing and expenditures accordingly. You don't have to have the quickest car in your class or be in one of the faster classes. There are very successful racers who race in the lower classes of stock and SS eliminator and do just fine. You have to leave your ego at home and race within your financial parameters. There is nothing wrong with that.
For most of us, drag racing is a hobby. As such, spending on this activity should be a low priority item in your budget. I know too many racers who have no health insurance, no retirement plans, a lot of debt, but they have fancy racecars and tow rigs. I think that's part of the reason our Country is in such bad shape. We spend without consideration for the income and the future. Personally, that's not how I want my finances to be. So, jump in. Do as Michael Beard says and take "baby steps". The people are great out here and I guarantee you that you can have fun and still race affordably.
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Julie Jordan 7549 STK |
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#5 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boulder City, Nevada 89005
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 2,808
Liked 2,488 Times in 698 Posts
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Baby steps is right..................never spend more than you can afford.
Try to work an extra half day a week on something to generate some more money to spend. Spend time looking for deals on everything and talk to everyone. Do not be ashamed to ask for help or make an offer on something. Forget about qualifying on top or winning heads up races. Maintain and check every part on car for problems regularly. Remember there are many things in life much more important (Think Health, Family, Faith, Work) Irving Family Racing |
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#6 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: On a hilltop in Pa.
Posts: 4,504
Likes: 3,606
Liked 7,814 Times in 1,748 Posts
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This thread is getting me all teary-eyed and hopeful that Drag Racing might just survive itself!
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Billy Nees 1188 STK, SS I'm not spending 100K to win 2K |
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#7 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Anthem, Arizona
Posts: 2,766
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
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I started with my daily driver which was a mint '87 Daytona Shelby Z I bought for $4,500. I'd always wanted a class car and figured owning one that was capable of running under the index would never fit in my budget. I had a cat-back Mopar Performance exhaust, a Mopar Performance ECU nothing else. I decided to try it one day. It spun the Radial T/A's and was about .400 under the index. From there I added a exhaust cutout (because it was still my daily driver) and 20" diameter slicks. I set the B/FS record. I then rebuilt the engine, basically balanced & blueprinted with gapless rings and set the A/FS record. When the fun was over (because I wanted a fast RWD car), I sold it for $5,000 in the late '90's. So there you go, I bought in for $4500 and had a little more than $500 in it in improvements when I set the B/FS record. I sold it capable of re-setting the A/FS record for $5,000. You could have been the buyer on the front end or back end with about $5K and had fun. And I think it could be duplicated today for about the same money.
Then I bought my AMX and spent more money. One of the things I've done to make the car faster is to spend the money on the car and not the rig. I've always had an SUV daily driver as tow vehicle and an open trailer I paid $1800 for. Others have a $25K (plus / plus / plus) tow rig & a $10K (Plus / plus) trailer. Although I would love a dually and enclosed trailer, I live in an HOA that isn't really friendly about that kind of stuff and that's my choice. And I don't want off-site storage for security and cost reasons. So that's how I arrive at the races. Nothing fancy! I cringe at being on the road and hotels but have the car heavily insured for some piece of mind. But heck, many have had their race cars stolen while hidden in an enclosed trailer. I think one needs to determine how fast (ET) of a car they want first. If your OK driving a slower car, then FWD or the V/SA type of six cylinder or heavy V-8 cars is the way to go for a lot less money. $10K will probably go a long way here. If you want a faster ride (say 12.5 or quicker), then you need more money. I'd suggest not being brand or model specific and shop for the best deal you can find on a used operation. It's when you get specific that it will most likely drive the cost up. Pass on the "popular" cars as they are the most expensive buy-in and hardest to keep up with the Joneses. $25K will go a long way here. If you want to build a muscle car into a Stocker, consider the cost of a relatively nice restoration (body / paint / chrome / interior / suspension) first and then the cost of the drivetrain / wheels / tires / and other race accessories. Just a light restoration might be $10K plus, and the initial purchase might be $5K plus. So $15K goes by quickly. After that, you could easily spend another $15K on the race parts. It ads up quickly! If you buy used, buy it at the return road of the track after witnessing a satisfactory run.
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Burlington, WA
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
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I could write a book about getting into Super Stock racing with no money.
It starts with getting to know Stock/Super Stock racers. Without their help, you will mis-spend money. I started bracket racing a 64 Malibu SS in 1992. Bought the whole car turnkey for $5500. Ran low 11's, high 10's. Got the bug to go Super Stock racing from a good friend, Mr. Jim Ezell-who raced a SS/HA 67 Camaro. (I liked the wheelies)! Found a great guy, Rod Stults, who had a 64 Chevelle Wagon. It had been a Super Stocker since the mid '80s. He gave me the deal of a lifetime on it. Sold the Malibu and bought the Wagon. I did a lot of homework, and built a legal 327/Powerglide for it-and ran about .3 under. Had the good fortune of winning my second Divisional I ever entered. I had about $7000 in the whole car. Add $1100 for the open trailer (thanks Mr. Ezell) and $5500 for the 84 Chevrolet dually (thanks Mom and Dad)-I had a racing operation. Soon after, I was introduced to Mr. Gary Rouse, who had previously owned the Wagon. He had no reason to help me, but graciously gave me great advice in every aspect of Super Stock racing. Gary is a former Division 6 Champion-running a deadly 4 door Chevelle. He has since retired and sold the car. He knows my Combo inside and out. He even let me use his best cylinder heads-and ran .7 under. Short story long, I have finally spent a bunch of money to upgrade the whole car. Here it is... Motorhome $20000 24' Enclosed trailer $3500 (great deal) Wagon $17000 with new everything It still needs a paint job, but as Rod Stults says "It will still look good in the winner's circle"! In the end, get to know the racers and ask lots of questions. These guys are the best at giving you the shortcuts you need to be successful. I am so thankful for the people I have met in my process. I owe them everything. Good luck! |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sandusky, Ohio
Posts: 353
Likes: 95
Liked 227 Times in 74 Posts
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Very good info here thanks alot fellas and I hope more folks can chime in
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 199
Likes: 51
Liked 172 Times in 46 Posts
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I am afriad to admit how much I have in my B/S. Went from S/G to Stock back in 99 and having a ton more fun, also have spent a lot of money. I do all of own stuff, motors, trans, gears, etc. When I started out I had somelse do the motors to be legal, just got too expensive.
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Dirk Olson 5036 STK |
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