Impossible to achieve high 1.20s sixties

[Stephen & Horace Johnson]

clutch, rpm, susp, tire.... Our 3300lbs sled cuts high 1.20s on a good track and low 1.30s on a greasy track...we took the car to one of the worst tracks in the country and cut a 1.27 by tuning,tuning, tuning...

I agree with Brad, first off stop the thing from rolling...

[69Cobra]

I like to stop with the tires at the edge of the water then stab the clutch before the tires grab and put excessive heat in the clutch. So I would recommend that as well as staging as shallow as possible. The other two biggest factors I see is that the wheelie bars appear to be slapping the ground at launch and unloading the rear-end and causing the tires to spin a lot more than I would want. The other thing is that the rear suspension doesn't appear to be separating and planting the tire. So I would try to keep the heat out of the clutch during the burnout, stage as shallow as possible with some break pressure to hold the car still, raise the wheelie bars so they aren't unloading the rear suspension and if that doesn't get you there see what you can do about getting the rear suspension to separate to help plant the tire then look at taking some clutch out of it if that doesn't get you there. Last but not least put a set of new M/T tires on it. Just my .02

[joespanova]

[quote ]I agree with Brad, first off stop the thing from rolling...[/quote]

Naturally , The clutch is getting attention now........like I said...that video is not typical..........

[joespanova]

incrementals on one of those runs:
.077
1.33
3.865
6.026
113.21
7.905
9.510
139.86

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Don't have any of the old tickets Joespanova, but my nova we talked about was similiar I remember incrementals.

Usaully around 1.27 60' best remember is 1.26
best 330' remember is 3.94
best 660' remember 6.12 @ 109
Had 3.25 1st. 5.57 rear left @ 8800 shifted @ 8200 just past 60' timer had Mc leod soft loc w base all the way down 300 lbs (i believe) and no counterweight added.
I don't know what rpm you crank but,I think you said 3.25/5.86,I'm guessing it would take around 9000-9500 shift point to clear 60' in low gear

You'll probaly find @ least .05 quicker or more by being shallow staged,not to mention there's no way to race w/ car moving RT/ET will be all over the place,if you run full tree just stage @ idle and set line loc,no reason to bring engine up while staging on full .500 tree,get staged locked it down then you can zing it.
if running pro tree get brake pressure gauge and find the right pressure for you,so you can stage w/rpm up

You have to get car to sit still in beams,have positive stop for clutch,and same RPM everytime to make car consistent @ET,RT
You need positive stop on clutch,so air gap is same everytime(start@ .050'' if shifting w/clutch) so car will hit the tires the same,RT's will be consistent,I use micro switch on stop to operate line loc,so I don't have to release it,if use 2 step hook there also
Mike Taylor3601

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601

You'll probaly find @ least .05 quicker or more by being shallow staged,not to mention there's no way to race w/ car moving RT/ET will be all over the place,if you run full tree just stage @ idle and set line loc,no reason to bring engine up while staging on full .500 tree,get staged locked it down then you can zing it.
if running pro tree get brake pressure gauge and find the right pressure for you,so you can stage w/rpm up

You have to get car to sit still in beams,have positive stop for clutch,and same RPM everytime to make car consistent @ET,RT
Mike Taylor3601

Joe, not to beat a dead horse but this^^^ is everything and must be achieved before doing anything else.

[joespanova]

OK guys...thanks , really I appreciate the suggestions.................BUT FOR THE 4th TIME..........The car generally/ make that ALWAYS , until those videos......... does NOT have a history of rolling in the beams!Apparently I have to get in the bellhousing and see whats going on , but that again is NOT typical.......................I knew it was creeping as I could feel it dragging the clutch , probaly from too much heat or air gap or both ..........BUT as I've stated ( how many times , LOL ) in its entire life I have NEVER had a 1.20 anything regardless of shallow staging , clutch not dragging etc etc........so I was beginning to think this old chassis ( or TYPE of suspension ) just won't...........
You guys are evaluating the car's performane based on 2 videos...that wasn't my intent . Again , Ed asked a question....I said see for yourself with the videos...........I never asked anyone to "critique" the car based on those videos.......of which everyone seems to be doing , LOL.
At the risk of sounding "arrogant" which I hope I'm not.......I have been driving stick drag cars ever since I earned my drivers license .....some of the replies are academic .............this thread is NOT please evaluate these videos.........it IS however about "is it unrealistic to expect" an older leaf sprung / ladder bar, back half car to see consistant 1.2XX sixty foot times

[C and W Racing]

Originally Posted by Stephen & Horace Johnson

clutch, rpm, susp, tire.... Our 3300lbs sled cuts high 1.20s on a good track and low 1.30s on a greasy track...we took the car to one of the worst tracks in the country and cut a 1.27 by tuning,tuning, tuning...

I agree with Brad, first off stop the thing from rolling...

You forgot to tell them you did that with the back tires. Lol
Chuck

[Mike Pearson]

Chassis looks to stiff. Does not seem to plant the back tires. I would guess something is in a bind in your rear suspension. You have plenty of power. With the short times you have posted mid 1.20 60 Ft times should not be a problem. Check all of your angles on the ladder bars and pinion angle. Loosen the rear shocks and let the suspension work. Is that a mono leaf spring?

[joespanova]

Originally Posted by Mike Pearson

Is that a mono leaf spring?

Yes........

and I can definately stand to loosen the rear shocks...........I had a suspicion they may be too tight.