|
|
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Coast, Massachusetts
Posts: 146
Likes: 160
Liked 50 Times in 23 Posts
|
![]()
Also, as an added note, If you have an engine that has sat for a long time or outside in the trailer all winter, it's a good idea to fog the engine (we use an air /siphon gun) w/ MMO 24 - 48 hrs BEFORE trying to turn it over, also remove the plugs and spray / blow around in the chamber to coat everything. Turn it over by hand several times before using the starter and good to go.
__________________
Steve Stickel 1161 Stk 1167 SS |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Red Oak, TX
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
Todd
Like others have already said, I have used MMO in my stocker, and my alky motor bracket - 10.90 cars for years. If storing for long periods of time (winter), would mix some MMO with a little gas, and actually put in cell (I pulled foam out first) and ran it thru pump, lines, to motor. I just put enough in to get it all the way thru lines to motor. When it smokes good, it is protected. I normally pulled plugs and put some WD-40 in cylinders also. Usually changed plugs after... not sure they needed it, just did it. On alky car, I would spray thru carb after each race, both into vents and into mouth of carb. I tried some of the "fogging" sprays, but WD 40 seemed to do just as well for me. Stopped the "white death" from alky, and no corrosion issues seen. Would just run some gas thru cell before going to track, and while warming up car, before first pass. Never had any fuel check issues with NHRA or IHRA doing this. good luck, Ken |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|