|
|
![]() |
#1 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Somerset,Ky
Posts: 1,380
Likes: 371
Liked 319 Times in 108 Posts
|
![]()
one other thing I have'nt saw anyone mention is that your torque plate needs to be close to same bore as block,Mike @ BHJ recommended within .060'',I learned this after I did my 305 the first time and used 350 plates when I tore down first time looked like had'nt had used torque plates.
Alot of people don't realize how much a stock block changes when heads are torqued in,most cases you hone with torque plates then remove them and go back and recheck cylinder bore w/ bore gauge cylinders are screwed up,reinstall plates and torque they go back like they were when you honed them. Mike Taylor 3601 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Murfreesboro, Tn
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
![]() Quote:
One of the things that I have learned to look at with a torque plate is too make sure that the gasket fire ring is completely clamped by the torque plate. Many times I have run a gasket as close to the bore size as possible to gain compression. If the head clamps the gasket, then the torque plate must clamp the gasket. You will be surprised at how many do not look. Lay the gasket on the block, then flip over the torque plate and lay the gasket on it. You might be surprised, crap you might even shoooocked. reed |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|