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#1 |
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It might be possible to fit the bigger brakes of an A or B body on it. A trip to a salvage yard might yield the parts.
Springs will not help, the springs are return springs, they pull the shoes back. A premium non metallic shoe, on a fresh turned (or new) drum, with the shoes properly arched to fit the drum will help. Usually the arch of the shoe is not even close to the radius of the drum, so only 1/3 or less of the shoe really bites the drum.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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#2 |
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Something we tried is buy 2 sets of shoes and use the long shoes only. I am not sure about that particular car but some models that had power brakes used smaller wheel cylinders and going to a non power brake car application for the wheel cylinders made the cylinder bore larger resulting in more pressure applied to the shoe. Hope this helps
Kevin |
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#3 |
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Yeah, two long shoes is a good thing to try. Some times upping the wheel cylinder diameter does help, another good thing to try. You might also try the aluminum master cylinder from a manual brake S10.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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#4 |
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This is the "bolt in" lightweight master cylinder from NAPA pt# M2456
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#5 |
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Glaze build-up on the shoes reduces holding ability. It's probably more than I need to do, but after every weekend of racing when I swap my rear slicks, I lightly sand the brake shoes to eliminate any glaze and check the adjustment.
It seems like the cheaper the brake shoe, the better it holds. Softer is better, but I don't know how to tell. A long time ago, I read that they use a slightly different material between the front 1/2 and back 1/2. One was softer. Don't know if they still do that. I'll have to do a visual comparison next chance I get. |
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