Kevlar pilot bushings

[Jim Caughlin]

Didn't think about PEEK, we use it at work and it works very well as a wear surface, good idea. I currently use a GM size needle bearing unit, they last for a full season but do wear out. I had one come apart once and it was a royal pain to remove. Maybe it is best to just accept that they wear out on a yearly basis and need to be replaced. Just thinking about better ideas.

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by Jim Caughlin

Didn't think about PEEK, we use it at work and it works very well as a wear surface, good idea. I currently use a GM size needle bearing unit, they last for a full season but do wear out. I had one come apart once and it was a royal pain to remove. Maybe it is best to just accept that they wear out on a yearly basis and need to be replaced. Just thinking about better ideas.

PEEK will take the abuse and loads better than Delrin or Nylon.

[james schaechter]

We have run a kevlar bearing and it has done well. I think RAM sells or markets it. 3 seasons on it.
I would say that if you have the crank out, do it all the way and install a sealed bearing. Never ever had a failure there. From a 10,000 rpm modified to a stocker.

[Bill Edgeworth]

Originally Posted by SSDiv6

PEEK will take the abuse and loads better than Delrin or Nylon.

PEEK is a great resin, way better than nylon and better than Delrin and also much more expensive. However I think there are some newer composite resins like Hydlar which I think is a Kevlar filled nylon that gives both strength and lubricity. The old glass filled nylons had good strength but also caused wear on the shafts they were supporting. (I'm speaking as a plastics guy, not specifically about transmission applications)

Not sure how easy it is to machine or suitable for a pilot bushing.......there is getting to be an awful lot of engineering resins on the market with special purpose fillers in them.

[Run to Rund]

South Bend Clutch used Kevlar bushings for a while in diesel applications.
Use your dial indicator to make sure the bellhousing is dead centered, and the trans surface is parallel to the block/crank flange. It is very common for them to be out. Lakewood etc. offer offset dowel pins.

[Jim Caughlin]

Maybe I'm missing something here, is there a sealed bearing (as opposed to an open cage type bearing) that will hold up? In my case, I'm using the open cage type. I pack it full of grease when I first install it but obviously a few 10,000 RPM launches and I assume all of that grease exits the bearing in a short period of time and the bearing is in an unlubed state and eventually fails. In additon, the grease flings into the bellhousing and makes a big mess. As the sealed bearing would not be a press fit onto the pilot, does it spin free enough to be effective or is it just going to gaul the pilot? I'm thinking of either machining a bushing out of PEEK and/or utilizing a sealed bearing that spins adequately free, either should improve my situation. Any thoughts?

[Mark Ugrich]

I use a sealed bearing in my SBF. It was installed with green loctite. It may take some research , but I would think there has to be a bearing that would be close enough for your application.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

I been using the sealed bearing for years,picked it up from truck pullers, Mc Leod, I think sales them Jerico used to I know they have them for Chevrolets,I don't know what your application is.
Had some made before,can't remember bearing # make bushing to adapt OD to crank
BTW they fit in the bigger hole where converter pilot goes
Remember made one for Windsor in pulling truck once.
These bearings will last for years and if ever do go bad just go buy bearing and put in bushing.
Mike Taylor 3601