Is a Mexican Block Worth the Trouble?

[randy wilson]

Bill, I think they used Hardbloc, but not sure. Been 10 years ago. There may very well be a way to do it right. I know lots of people swear by it, and some of them are hitters. I'm just giving my little bit of experience with it. On one .90 over 283, (I know that's a weird bore size) it never stopped moving around, even after 4 hones. It was an SS\CS 287, north of 600 HP with iron bowties.

[FireSale]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

I have read that the nickel content is not higher but the casting is a bit thicker and the mains are wider. Stronger than stock but not BOSS strong. It's been mag and pressure tested and the decks checked. I need to see the documents for that as well as photos of the block numbers before I move ahead.

My other option is to build using the current block which overheated and locked up on the way home from the purchase of the car. Read: No option.

Dale

[Jim Hanig]

Save your money and buy a svo or boss , You will save money in the end.

[Stephen & Horace Johnson]

Originally Posted by FireSail

Got an email from this fella and it's still for sale. He says it was last bored 50 over. The NHRA limit is 80 over, so is this block weakened if it's a total of 60 over stock?

Dale

If it was standard I would probably use it if you have it..
As plentiful as the blocks are do not waste the money on a 50 over block...

[71mavlouisville]

Dale, there is a B-50 “sportsman” block that Ford was making that was a “new” casting of the “mexican” block. I put about 100 passes on this type of block turning 9500 rpm around 580 hp without block fill and without a stud girdle. Just make sure and have quality machine work done and use ARP studs throughout. As soon as I could afford it I went to the “Boss Block”. There is a WORLD of difference between these blocks. The boss block is around 20 pounds heavier than the B-50 block I was using. There is a TON more material in cylinder wall, lifter bore area, cam tunnel, deck and mains. = more HP

The machining cost is the same on a production block and boss block. The Boss block is REALLY “cheap” at $1800.00 Figure a Used block, machine work and then if you are crazy enough to try and use hard block, dealing with the overheating from the block filling, ring seal etc, believe me go with the best parts first. You are going to end up buying it in the future anyway.

Whatever you do, do not bore over 0.040” in a production block, test the wall thickness with US, the production blocks are super thin.

Happy building.

[Ed Fernandez]

Originally Posted by SStockDart

I read up on Mexican Blocks before using one in my street rod...(55 F100)....please understand that this engine is intended to "sound good" and I don't care how fast it it.....it is a 302.....I understand that the Mexican block is better because it has more nickel (SP) content....I don't know why that is better, it is just what I was told.....I never run the streetrod over 6,000 so this might not be a good example...no sleeves, no light weight parts....."It sounds really fast........but it isn't".....LOL (that is what street rods are supposed to do)

Gary,they also should have a "green card" also.

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by Ed Fernandez

Gary,they also should have a "green card" also.

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