Rv towing question about rear overhang.

[Mark Howes]

Danny

That's good information. Also the better that ratio the better chance that the motorhome will be full frame to the hitch.

The more overhang the more likely there is a scabbed on frame extension which takes a fair bit of beefing up to make sure the motorhome doesn't flex and de-lam

For example I just sold a 31' motorhome on a chev P 30 chassis (1999). Factory frame to the bumper. 33' and above had a scabbed on version which would have been a pain to reinforce

Bought a 34' Workhorse W22 and same thing full frame to back. If you can find a motorhome on the shorter length of the chassis its placed on there is a better chance it will have a stronger frame bumper to bumper and no extensions

[sst1226]

Going to resurrect this thread with a related question. Looking for an inexpensive starter motor home that is just enough to sleep, shower and escape the elements at the races. Think I may have found it in a Winnebago Warrior 22 from the early 90s. Brochure calculates to a length to wheelbase ratio of 54% (137” wb, 21’-11” length per the manual). Looking to tow a 28’ Haulmark Edge with full wooden cabinets and a 2900lb door car, so not a light unit and probably a lot of tongue weight. The Warrior looks like it has minimal rear overhang past the rear axle so good chance it may have a full frame.

Not looking to take long trips, roughly 70 miles tops from home, Maple Grove, Atco, Cecil. Mostly flat highway drives. I live 20 minutes from Cecil and run 75-80% of my races there.

Anyone tow with one of these short motor homes? Thoughts on this combo? Can I get away without a toad?

[james schaechter]

We used to tow a 24 ft with a 27 foot gasser RV. The rear frame was braced up and was fine. It was a handful in the wind and scary if you needed to stop in a hurry. I would think a bigger trailer smaller RV would be worse.

Originally Posted by sst1226

Going to resurrect this thread with a related question. Looking for an inexpensive starter motor home that is just enough to sleep, shower and escape the elements at the races. Think I may have found it in a Winnebago Warrior 22 from the early 90s. Brochure calculates to a length to wheelbase ratio of 54% (137” wb, 21’-11” length per the manual). Looking to tow a 28’ Haulmark Edge with full wooden cabinets and a 2900lb door car, so not a light unit and probably a lot of tongue weight. The Warrior looks like it has minimal rear overhang past the rear axle so good chance it may have a full frame.

Not looking to take long trips, roughly 70 miles tops from home, Maple Grove, Atco, Cecil. Mostly flat highway drives. I live 20 minutes from Cecil and run 75-80% of my races there.

Anyone tow with one of these short motor homes? Thoughts on this combo? Can I get away without a toad?

[NSSGTO]

I pulled a 24ft enclosed with a 31ft Class C --E450. The rear frame was braced, air bags, coil over shocks, sway bars. With a W/D hitch it handled OK, when I went to a 28ft ATC trailer I could not hold it on the road in the wind. Changed to a Gulfstream Super C Diesel on a Chevrolet C5500 Kodiak Chassis, Night and Day Difference. No longer tired 3hrs into the trip.


My advice, any RV you get no matter the age or mileage, upgrade the suspension with Airbags, Good Shocks and Swaybars. It will make a huge difference in the way it handles.

[garyduncan]

What brand of shocks, airbags and swaybars you run on your super c 5500 chevy motorhome

[NSSGTO]

Originally Posted by garyduncan

What brand of shocks, airbags and swaybars you run on your super c 5500 chevy motorhome

Gary,
The set up I have is

Bilstein Shocks all 4 corners
Airlift 5000 bags rear
Sumo Springs Front (Replaces front jounce bumper)
Super Steer Rear Track bar
Hellwig front swaybar
Roadmaster Reflex Steering Damper

I know it sounds like a lot but these made a huge difference in the way it pulls.