Newbie to Pure Stock

kellintrans · 04-11-2014, 03:43 PM

Hello, I am getting back into drag racing at 43 years old, and a 13 year hiatus. Even then, I only grudge raced, and occasionally ran ET bracket. I am now interested in running in a more competitive format than bracket racing. I have been researching class racing for sometime, and I am contemplating building a Pure stock I/PS out of a 1987 Olds Cutlass Salon. This class seems to be more budget friendly than Stock Eliminator. Also, from what I have been reading on classracer.com, there is a lot of camaraderie among the participants. This is exactly what I am looking for. Any introductory advice, tips, and ideas would be greatly appreciated.

04-11-2014, 04:23 PM

Let me be the first to welcome you to the fun. First off do your homework on your combination and see if it's worth pursuing before you spend a lot of time and money on the effort. Read Nitro Joe's stats and see if that combination will run as well as if that is a competitive class. If you feel comfortable with it contact either Mike Baker or your regional tech director to double check camshaft specs, etc. Do it legal the first time! After that seek advice on what to do to your particular combination to make it run. There seem to be lots of guys on here that "specialize" in different cars that would be able to help you. Seeking advice from someone that has already made a car run fast and knows what to and what not to do will save you many headaches.

Most of all jump in and enjoy yourself!

Scott

kellintrans · 04-11-2014, 06:52 PM

Thanks for the advice. I will contact Mike Baker.

ALMACK · 04-11-2014, 10:08 PM

Welcome to class racing.
The most fun with Pure Stock to me is the challenge of running under the index using mostly stock parts.

There is plenty of help here on Class Racer if you have any questions.

As Scott posted above, you will have to contact Mike Baker to get the latest Pure Stock factored h.p. for your combo.

Robert Swartz · 04-12-2014, 10:02 PM

All I have to offer. Welcome to the lunacy, come on in , the waters fine. Stock/Pure Stock is a bit of different animal than bracket racing. It also offers different challenges.

My take on what I would do. First off, find out where your car classes. Then figure out what the minimum weight needs to be. Determine the index you need to run. Then I'd set myself up a gear set . Get some wheels and tires, (skinnys and slicks). You'll need a driveshaft loop and long wheel studs also. I would want at a minimum a tach and temperature gage. Make sure all the belts and hoses are good, tracks don't like cars that leak, lol.

Take the car to the track. If possible go to a track where you can weigh the car. With the information of what the car needs to weigh, you can begin to look at the areas that you can legally start shedding pounds. After running the car, you will have a baseline to begin to look at what you need to do get to your index. Go out and enjoy yourself.

kellintrans · 04-13-2014, 09:51 AM

Thank you for the replies. I am new to the whole forum thing, as well. I believe I can do this fairly inexpensive, due to the fact I can build my own motors, transmission, and rear end. I haven't owned a car in over 10 years, but I have been building high performance automatic transmissions (and some motors) on the side for customers for 20 years. I have learned a few tricks on how to make OEM parts perform better than originally intended. I have done a lot of research from the early days of the 1960's Junior stockers up until the present day Stock eliminator, and Pure Stock seems to be the class for the working guy to compete on a divisional/national level. To me, it seems more authentic, and challenging.

Mike Carr · 04-13-2014, 10:23 AM

You will have to see what IHRA rates that particular 307 at. I believe the factory rating was 145 or so. IHRA rates a motor different, at times, between traditional Stock and Pure Stock. Shipping weight divided by IHRA rating = the cars natural class. From there, you can move up one class or down one class. You take the top weight break for each class multiplied by the IHRA rating + 170 pounds to get the minimum weight, with driver, across the scales. If the shipping weight/horsepower = 14.xx, it will run G/PS, and can also run F and H To run G, you take 14.00 x IHRA rating + 170 = min wt.

I wrote this a few years ago, lists all the weight breaks for NHRA/IHRA Stock and Super Stock: http://classracer.com/classes.html

kellintrans · 04-13-2014, 11:31 AM

I am going to contact Mike Baker tomorrow to find out the exact specs for IHRA. According to the NHRA specs, the 1987 Olds Cutlass Salon 307 had three different advertised hp ratings. 138 hp/ factored to 210 hp, 140 hp/ factored to 232 hp, and 180 hp factored to 232 hp. The shipping weight is 3227 lbs. Using the 138 hp/210 hp rated motor would put my combo as a natural H/PS. I can move one up or down accordingly. Do I have to use the ECM controlled carb, and distributor, or can I switch it to a OEM non computer application. Also the NHRA blueprint guide states that the stock lift specs on the cam is .474 int/exh. Is that valid in IHRA pure stock? I have checked the IHRA updates, and the is no info on the Olds 307.

04-11-2014, 03:43 PM	#1
kellintrans Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Middletown, DE Posts: 30 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Newbie to Pure Stock Hello, I am getting back into drag racing at 43 years old, and a 13 year hiatus. Even then, I only grudge raced, and occasionally ran ET bracket. I am now interested in running in a more competitive format than bracket racing. I have been researching class racing for sometime, and I am contemplating building a Pure stock I/PS out of a 1987 Olds Cutlass Salon. This class seems to be more budget friendly than Stock Eliminator. Also, from what I have been reading on classracer.com, there is a lot of camaraderie among the participants. This is exactly what I am looking for. Any introductory advice, tips, and ideas would be greatly appreciated.

04-11-2014, 04:23 PM	#2
Tar Heel Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Newbie to Pure Stock Let me be the first to welcome you to the fun. First off do your homework on your combination and see if it's worth pursuing before you spend a lot of time and money on the effort. Read Nitro Joe's stats and see if that combination will run as well as if that is a competitive class. If you feel comfortable with it contact either Mike Baker or your regional tech director to double check camshaft specs, etc. Do it legal the first time! After that seek advice on what to do to your particular combination to make it run. There seem to be lots of guys on here that "specialize" in different cars that would be able to help you. Seeking advice from someone that has already made a car run fast and knows what to and what not to do will save you many headaches. Most of all jump in and enjoy yourself! Scott

04-11-2014, 06:52 PM	#3
kellintrans Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Middletown, DE Posts: 30 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Newbie to Pure Stock Thanks for the advice. I will contact Mike Baker.

04-11-2014, 10:08 PM	#4
ALMACK VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Bardstown, KY Posts: 1,937 Likes: 131 Liked 369 Times in 127 Posts	Re: Newbie to Pure Stock Welcome to class racing. The most fun with Pure Stock to me is the challenge of running under the index using mostly stock parts. There is plenty of help here on Class Racer if you have any questions. As Scott posted above, you will have to contact Mike Baker to get the latest Pure Stock factored h.p. for your combo. __________________ Alan Mackin Stock 3777/ SS 3377 P/SA & SS/PA Fox Thunderbird I/PS '95 Mustang GT

04-12-2014, 10:02 PM	#5
Robert Swartz Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Nineveh, Indiana Posts: 512 Likes: 0 Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Newbie to Pure Stock All I have to offer. Welcome to the lunacy, come on in , the waters fine. Stock/Pure Stock is a bit of different animal than bracket racing. It also offers different challenges. My take on what I would do. First off, find out where your car classes. Then figure out what the minimum weight needs to be. Determine the index you need to run. Then I'd set myself up a gear set . Get some wheels and tires, (skinnys and slicks). You'll need a driveshaft loop and long wheel studs also. I would want at a minimum a tach and temperature gage. Make sure all the belts and hoses are good, tracks don't like cars that leak, lol. Take the car to the track. If possible go to a track where you can weigh the car. With the information of what the car needs to weigh, you can begin to look at the areas that you can legally start shedding pounds. After running the car, you will have a baseline to begin to look at what you need to do get to your index. Go out and enjoy yourself. __________________ Robert Swartz - Swartz & Lane 66 Chevy II Pro 95 Achieva EF/SA, 78 Mustang II U/SA (work in progress) #354 stock

04-13-2014, 09:51 AM	#6
kellintrans Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Middletown, DE Posts: 30 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Newbie to Pure Stock Thank you for the replies. I am new to the whole forum thing, as well. I believe I can do this fairly inexpensive, due to the fact I can build my own motors, transmission, and rear end. I haven't owned a car in over 10 years, but I have been building high performance automatic transmissions (and some motors) on the side for customers for 20 years. I have learned a few tricks on how to make OEM parts perform better than originally intended. I have done a lot of research from the early days of the 1960's Junior stockers up until the present day Stock eliminator, and Pure Stock seems to be the class for the working guy to compete on a divisional/national level. To me, it seems more authentic, and challenging.

04-13-2014, 10:23 AM	#7
Mike Carr VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Enon Valley PA Posts: 1,650 Likes: 234 Liked 83 Times in 37 Posts	Re: Newbie to Pure Stock You will have to see what IHRA rates that particular 307 at. I believe the factory rating was 145 or so. IHRA rates a motor different, at times, between traditional Stock and Pure Stock. Shipping weight divided by IHRA rating = the cars natural class. From there, you can move up one class or down one class. You take the top weight break for each class multiplied by the IHRA rating + 170 pounds to get the minimum weight, with driver, across the scales. If the shipping weight/horsepower = 14.xx, it will run G/PS, and can also run F and H To run G, you take 14.00 x IHRA rating + 170 = min wt. I wrote this a few years ago, lists all the weight breaks for NHRA/IHRA Stock and Super Stock: http://classracer.com/classes.html __________________ Mike Carr, Tri-State S/SS Association President Looking for 2015 S/SS Race Sponsors Contact me if interested buffdaddy_1302@hotmail.com (724) 510-5912

04-13-2014, 11:31 AM	#8
kellintrans Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Middletown, DE Posts: 30 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Newbie to Pure Stock I am going to contact Mike Baker tomorrow to find out the exact specs for IHRA. According to the NHRA specs, the 1987 Olds Cutlass Salon 307 had three different advertised hp ratings. 138 hp/ factored to 210 hp, 140 hp/ factored to 232 hp, and 180 hp factored to 232 hp. The shipping weight is 3227 lbs. Using the 138 hp/210 hp rated motor would put my combo as a natural H/PS. I can move one up or down accordingly. Do I have to use the ECM controlled carb, and distributor, or can I switch it to a OEM non computer application. Also the NHRA blueprint guide states that the stock lift specs on the cam is .474 int/exh. Is that valid in IHRA pure stock? I have checked the IHRA updates, and the is no info on the Olds 307.