Any Tips for Installing a Trans?

[FireSale]

Thanks all. I have a 2500 lb hoist and the guy down the street has a load leveler I can borrow. When I sold the stock 302 three of us pulled the engine and trans out in one unit. Actually, only two of us really knew what we were doing. Ever have that happen? didn't think so...

For some reason I never thought of doing the engine first and then the trans, but it seems like a good idea to stabilize the motor and wiggle the trans around to fit.

I just got a call from Strange Engineering and my rear end assembly and brakes are ready to ship. Almost ready to rock and roll. been working on this since last September.

While on the subject of putting things together, any tips on installing long tube headers? I was thinking of laying them in the engine bay over the motor mounts and bolting them up with the engine in place but still chained to the hoist in case I have to move things. Installing them with the motor in looks like it requires removing the motor mounts one at a time and working from under the car.

Ideas? I haven't picked them out yet. Probably Hedman.

Dale

[Dave Ribeiro]

Dale,

I think Fords are like Pontiacs when it comes to installing headers .. When I do them in my firebird , I lay them on the enter fenderwell panels.. Hold them in place with bungee cords, then I drop the motor in between the headers ... Attach the motor mount bolts, then lift the headers in-place & bolt them up to the heads ... That seems to work the best & that's another reason to not try & do everything at once ...
* Bill , is right about not having enough room/ground clearance also...
Take it easy and keep us informed ? Do it right the first time, so you don't have to do it AGAIN !!!! Hope this helps ?

[Run to Rund]

If the car is up high enough, you can usually get enough downward angle to install the engine and trans together. I have done that with 4 speed manuals for decades. The only problem occurs when the engine oil pan has a big sump that is deep and comes very close to the crossmember. In that case you can have the bellhousing area against the firewall hump and the pan against the crossmember.

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Run to Rund

If the car is up high enough, you can usually get enough downward angle to install the engine and trans together. I have done that with 4 speed manuals for decades. The only problem occurs when the engine oil pan has a big sump that is deep and comes very close to the crossmember. In that case you can have the bellhousing area against the firewall hump and the pan against the crossmember.

Yes, we pulled a 302 with the trans but it was a pain.

The piston on the old hoist decided to stop working with the engine just clear of the mounts. Luckily. the guy who was buying it (he sold me the car then bought the motor back) had a brother along who was prepared for stuff like that and pulled out a replacement. All this in February rain in Washington.

The headers complicate things. It makes three things to install at once and my head can't deal with that. Eight spark plugs is a challenge. Bungie cording the headers to the inside of the engine bay is just what I had in mind, so I guess I'm not nuts after all...

Got my parking brake handle installed. You do have parking brakes in your race cars, don't you?

Dale

[Sean Marconette]

Hedmans have fit well on my SBF. Depending on the header size and obstacles, every car could be different as to if you can snake the header in with the engine in place. My straight 1 5/8" allowed easier install than the current step headers. Unless you have individual tubes that may make it even better.

Sean

[Run to Rund]

My cars aren't Fords, but I have always installed the headers into the engine bay first. Some headers pretty much require the starter be on the block when the engine is installed, or there will be no room to put it on later.

[Rory McNeil]

A couple of thoughts. First off, if you raise the back end of the car up high enough (rear tires at least a foot off the ground, even more if possible), with the front tires on the ground, you should be able to install the engine and trans together, without having to having the tailhousing pointed almost straight down. And with a 289/302, there is a good chance you could install the engine with the headers bolted to the heads. I realize my 85 Mustang has a wider engine compartment than a 65-70 (and possibly a 71-3), and my Mustangs a stick, but I install my 302 complete with the clutch and scattershield bolted on, along with the starter motor and the passenger side header. I have to install the drivers side header after, as the last tube has a slip joint, and wraps around the steering column shaft. If you don`t want to try installing the engine and trans together, I`ll go against the grain, and recommend putting the trans in first. Reason? Well, 1rst off, the trans would be attatched at the trans mount and crossmember, so you don`t have to worry about the trans sliding off the floor jack, onto your arm, hand, or head. Back in the 80s, I spent 5 years as an engine re & re man at a high volume engine rebuilding shop, and thats how we did it there, on the floor, with jackstands.On a Ford, don`t forget the block plate between the back of the block and the flexplate. Also, if the torque convertor retains the factory style studs, rotate the flexplate and convertor so a stud is at 6 O clock (straight down). And if it has a convertor drain plug , like stock, have the plug at the bottom, so if needed, you can make any minor movements to align the stud to the fleplate with a small screwdriver. By the way, I assume that you already have the firewall to shock tower braces removed, correct? Have fun!

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

A couple of thoughts. First off, if you raise the back end of the car up high enough (rear tires at least a foot off the ground, even more if possible), with the front tires on the ground, you should be able to install the engine and trans together, without having to having the tailhousing pointed almost straight down. And with a 289/302, there is a good chance you could install the engine with the headers bolted to the heads. I realize my 85 Mustang has a wider engine compartment than a 65-70 (and possibly a 71-3), and my Mustangs a stick, but I install my 302 complete with the clutch and scattershield bolted on, along with the starter motor and the passenger side header. I have to install the drivers side header after, as the last tube has a slip joint, and wraps around the steering column shaft. If you don`t want to try installing the engine and trans together, I`ll go against the grain, and recommend putting the trans in first. Reason? Well, 1rst off, the trans would be attatched at the trans mount and crossmember, so you don`t have to worry about the trans sliding off the floor jack, onto your arm, hand, or head. Back in the 80s, I spent 5 years as an engine re & re man at a high volume engine rebuilding shop, and thats how we did it there, on the floor, with jackstands.On a Ford, don`t forget the block plate between the back of the block and the flexplate. Also, if the torque convertor retains the factory style studs, rotate the flexplate and convertor so a stud is at 6 O clock (straight down). And if it has a convertor drain plug , like stock, have the plug at the bottom, so if needed, you can make any minor movements to align the stud to the fleplate with a small screwdriver. By the way, I assume that you already have the firewall to shock tower braces removed, correct? Have fun!

Thanks for the input. The stock export brace was one of the first things to go when I bought it. I put in an aluminum export brace and shock tower piece from Total Control. Easily removed and nice looking.

Got the block plate, too. I need to inventory everything that came today from TCI and see what bolts I need to get.

Dale