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#1 |
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Looks like you have tried most of the obvious things. Have you tried a different set of rear tires on the car? Could be some sort of tire issue that does not show up with balancing.
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Mike Pearson 2485 SS |
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#2 |
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Location: Churchville, NY
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Run #2 on Street Outlaw night.
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#3 |
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Change engines..........may not even be driveline related.
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#4 |
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One possibility would be a bad thrust bearing allowing the crank to move and bind against the converter.One of my cars had a "whine" only on coast.I found the flywheel bolts had printed the face of the converter.ARP bolts with thinner heads solved the problem.
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#5 |
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Seems like the vibration starts as soon as the coasting begins, then gets so bad he feels it in the shifter, and the rest of the car at the end.
I would have the gear changed right away. In a stick car, with a 6.50 screw, we would crack pinion teeth after 45-50 runs. Then after 50, you could barely touch the shifter in the shutdown coast. We found a better gear oil helps a bunch, on gear life. A new gear should make it whisper quiet in the shutdown. I know you guys get more gear life than that. But there is always a limit... Mark Williams knows drivelines, and sells the better gear oil. Regular gear oil isn't good enough... get the torco for longer gear life. www.markwilliams.com/Catalog/pg23.pdf torco sells for 10.70 a quart now, what are you using currently? Last edited by Don Sofranko; 10-07-2014 at 12:15 PM. |
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#6 |
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Usaully driveshaft will vibrate at two points on a run,a certain rpm which it will vibrate when passes that rpm accelerating then at that rpm when decelerating.
I still think sounds like gear noise. Dan, If can mount dial indicator and check driveshaft for run out on each end, if it runs around .015''or less should be smooth. Built driveshaft awhile back that couldn't be made smooth,had to build another one with bigger od tube and thinner wall thickness to fix it Mike Taylor 3601 |
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#7 | |
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#8 |
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Reading back a few pages, it says you are ready to switch back to the 6.20 gear.
That should provide evidence of the problem. Really though, a bad pinion would be all it takes. The pinion teeth do crack and deform, which can be hard to see. I had one gear wear out after 35 hits, when I had Quaker State gear lube in the 9 inch. That pro gear was found with rolled metal on the pinion. The pinion is more important than the ring gear. If the gear has too little backlash, its going to push out the heavy lube also. I sure would hate to be your gear set, watching how hard you wheel that Camaro at the stripe! |
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#9 |
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The Engine/Transmission shafting needs to be parallel to the rearend pinion shaft. This will allow each of the u-joints to run at the same angle which cancels the acceleration and deceleration the driveshaft sees each revolution. That is why the u-joints are phased to each other. If you crank too much pinion angle into the rearend, then the u-joints will get out of phase, and you will have a vibration. The pinion angle will change as the rear suspension moves because on a 4 link the upper and lower bars are typically not run parallel. Might be worse in this case when slowing down.
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#10 | |
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