Chevy oil filter adapter

[tj310]

We run the Moroso prefilter screen that sits on top of the regular filter. If you run this I highly recommend plugging the filter bypass otherwise on a cold start any debris trapped on the screen may head for the main brgs.---Trevor

[Ed Wright]

I always plug that bypass anyway.

[63corvette]

Originally Posted by Bob Gullett

We used to run the Gibbs oil in our spare superstocker engine. This is a picture of the pan with 10 runs since the pan was installed clean.

Not to steal the thread but oil is a very important thing to us all with our investment in the engines.
That pan looks really nasty. It looks like some of my experience with Penzoil back years ago but with more than 10 passes.
I use a blend of the XP3 and XP9 and have not seen anything like that yet....
For such an expensive oil that should not happen.
What are you using now?
I like the synthetic oils and hope to continue to use someones brand of them.
Now I am a little worried about my oil.
Rick Cates

[Bob Gullett]

I use the Valvoline race oil. I use either the synthetic or non synthetic. Lots of zinc and never no sludge, bearings look great and its half the price of the exotic race oils.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Bob Gullett

I use the Valvoline race oil. I use either the synthetic or non synthetic. Lots of zinc and never no sludge, bearings look great and its half the price of the exotic race oils.

Same here.

[Mike Semeniuk]

I also use a pipe plug in the GM filer adapter, and have for many years, and ditto on the Vavleoline. Only issue here is we must purchase from the USA as the weights popular in S/SS are not shipped to Canada because the packaging isn't bi-lingual. However if you need 20-50 - all kinds of it.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Bob Gullett

I use the Valvoline race oil. I use either the synthetic or non synthetic. Lots of zinc and never no sludge, bearings look great and its half the price of the exotic race oils.

Me too.

[Greg Reimer 7376]

That stuff looked just like the picture I saw. When I was in jr college going through the automotive program,around 1972 or 3, one of the school employees bought a very clean 64-65 Thunderbird,390,45000 or so miles, but it smoked profusely. Seems the oil had practically never been changed. When we guys in the shop pulled a valve cover, about a pint of very black oil fell out onto the exhaust manifolds. There was so much sludge in there that the oil couldn't drain back into the pan,so it apparently went by the valve guides. We took off the rocker arm shafts,push rods, the return tray, and made a scraper out of a spoon. It took hours to clean the tops of those heads, and to use a welding rod to open up the return holes. We went ahead and pulled the intake, put it in a hot tank with the valve covers and let it cook over a weekend, and the entire lifter valley looked like someone broke open a bag of charcoal briquets,mixed them with oil, and smashed them down into the valley.We dug it out, found the valley tray, threw it into the tank,and spent more hours excavating the sludge out of there, and washed the whole thing out with clean solvent.We probably should have dropped the pan and changed the screen,but it seemed to drain OK with the pan plug out. We cleaned it up, reassembled the engine, new oil and filter, and it ran fine. Some years later, he was still driving that car after all that, and it was fine. Scary to think of that mess.

[Eman]

You can tap for a pipe plug and loctite it in place or have someone tig weld the hole shut in the bypass.
If you plug the bypass be careful on start ups, don't rev the engine too quickly while cold and be sure to use a quality filter with a strong shell. A race filter is best as they flow better as they filter less. I'm no fan of 20w-50 sludge, thin oil is where it's at. I've used Valvoline VR-1 10w-30 and have switched to Lucas Hot Rod oil with good results, good deal from Summit.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

I have had good luck with Lucas oil, use there break-in oil and race oil has worked well,
Mike Taylor 3601