Painting with Graphics Question

[FireSale]

Are you guys referring to what PPG calls an adhesion promoter? A product used instead of sanding before applying a second coat after the first has gassed out too long? I'm setting up paint for my Mustang next week.

Dale

[Dion Hildebrandt]

With the candy red it would depend on what brand of candy concentrate you are using and if the base coat is solvent based or waterborne.

Solvent based base coat ,you can turn the candy into a basecoat with the appropriate toner. Sikkens brand had a base modifier that was clear and it would carry the candy concentrate and would apply and dry ("flash") as a normal base coat. The GREATLY simplified candy layer applications.

With waterborne base coats, you would have to do a traditional candy application with mixing the concentrate into the clearcoat itself.

With that being said ,if you are using a waterborne base coat I would apply the candy red graphics first. For two reasons
1- these may be smaller coverage so the "smallest" color gets applied first and masked first
2- with the ground color ,candy clear ,and two coats of clear coat there will be a thick edge left behind. If you do the silver color after all of that you can recover some of the height difference between the graphics, helping with the final clearcoat coverage at the end

If it is a solvent based base coat ..
-apply the silver let it flash and sit for an hour (in a garage with heat) or run the booth bake cycle
-mask and apply the candy (if it is a base coat format) let it flash, or bake
-unmask ,tack rag, detail check for bleed through (fix any issues) , tack again and clear coat

I would suggest the house of color candy system as this system has all of the science worked into the products and is really user friendly. It costs but you get what you pay for.

good luck and make sure you show us some photos of the paint work progress.

[impstocker]

Thanks Dion for the help.
I will be using solvent based basecoats. So you say I can mask off the first color basecoat, which will be Silver, then spray the second color, which will be the Candy Apple Red, then clear over that? I am afraid the first coat without clear would pull away with the tape.

I will be practicing with some body parts I have first. Had a bad experience recently with my friends 64 Falcon he had body work and painted "professionally" (10 K ) and masking tape over some painted parts would pull away paint! It was painted Candy Apple Red with silver basecoat.

Since this is maybe not a "dime rocket" it is "50 cent rocket" The Candy Apple Red is being donated as leftover from the Falcon Project which gave me the idea for the 2 tone job since i already have the Silver base coat. He also gave me a really good Matrix AG40 Clearcoat. Basically I already have the paint, I don't want to spend $ on that. I need to get my 396/325 BBC back together plus get a Torque Converter.

Here is pic of car today. I am missing passenger side front fender extension plus I really need a new trunk which I have one on the radar I will be picking up couple weeks.

Will Lamprecht
65 Impala I/SA Div 1 in progress

[Dion Hildebrandt]

What brand of paint are you going to use?
Reason I ask is the paint pulling away can be remedied with some proper materials and additives.

I will speak of Sikkens brand as I have used it for almost 25 years. We had done a flame job years ago and the flame licks were lifting after clear coat. So after lengthy discussions with the technical people at Sikkens it was determined that a hardener needed to be added to each layer of base coat color. This was done to promote cross link between each layer and subsequent clear coat. The second go around is still going as far as I know. This was all solvent based basecoat.

In recent years we have switched to waterborne basecoat and the same thing was happening with clearcoat and basecoats separating on regular paint jobs. So after some lengthy investigation it was determined that a specific hardener needed to be added to also improve crosslink between colors and clears.


Now it is also important to NOT intermix paint brands if at all possible. If it is done there is a great chance of having a peeling problem down the road. It is a possibility that the peeling the falcon has could be a result of-
1-intermixed or "budget" paint materials
2-improper preparation or painting practices
3-improper temperature or application process (meaning the base maybe wasn't flashed or dried properly -maybe "skinned over")
4-lack of proper additives for multi layer graphics

doing practice panels is a good idea, in addition do some research on the particular paint brand you are using. If you can get to know the area paint rep for that paint and if he is a "car guy" you may be able to get some specific tips or hints to achieving that custom finish.

Nice looking Impala by the way

[impstocker]

Thanks Dion. As far as that Falcon project I know he had at least 2 different folks doing the work. (one left before he finished) so I could imagine the paints used. I know he spent close to 2K for paint products alone! Not in my budget. Anyway this is race car, not a street car. It would not have been a car I would have started with to be a street car, too many body, rust ect issues. I will do my best, hope for a "20 footer" look. Don't want to destroy the "integrity" of the class, right Mr Nees !

I will look into the hardener though. Thanks

Will

[Dion Hildebrandt]

http://www.matrixsystem.com/docs/tec...tech_sheet.pdf, found this technical sheet for the clear coat you had mentioned. I don't have experience with Matrix systems but I have heard good things.

$2000 for a complete refinish is about right...pricey but that seems like a fair dollar figure for the good quality materials.