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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Genoa, Illinois
Posts: 490
Likes: 9
Liked 6 Times in 4 Posts
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It may take a few more passes to "set" the tires. keep trying..
I run the exact same #'s and slicks, rim size as you. I have no slippage... |
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#2 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,201
Likes: 0
Liked 276 Times in 54 Posts
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I'm on my 5 or 6th set of Hoosier Radials and have never had an issue. For curiosity, I put a paint mark on the tire that aligns with the valve stem on the last set. After about 70 runs you can see how much they have moved - not much at all. For the record - this is a 3400 LB A/SA Max-Wedge 64 Plymouth - mounted on 10" Weld Wheels w/ no special work on the bead - no adhesives - but always run with 21+ pounds of air pressure.
As referenced by others, I think the wheel width and higher air pressure are the key.
__________________
Been racing Stock and S/S cars since 1973. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: North Attleborough Ma.
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
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I've had this same issue for years. Tires would rotate 1/2"-1" on every pass. Hoosier 30x9, 10" wheel, 20lbs of air 3200 lb car. Swapped tires from side to side and they would move back to a point, sometimes one and not the other. Tried screws, then the tires would move and leak. My next move is to scuff up the bead area of the wheels, give the tire bead something to bite on. Sandblasting suggestion is a good one, I was thinking DA and 180 grit paper.
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