Broken Torque Converter

MR DERBY CITY · 05-25-2015, 09:05 PM

After further review, I would definately change the carb....Been there ..Done that...Lol.!! M.J.

George Mirza · 05-27-2015, 09:17 PM

Greg,
Try changing the coil spring that controls the air valve. Over time they loose their tension and the air valve will flutter and not operate smoothly. Once it's open all the way the problem goes away. While your at it, check the dash pot to make sure it's not blown. Take the hose off, push it in and hold your finger over the hole in the nipple the hose goes on and if it opens the thing is junk.

Greg Gay · 05-30-2015, 06:41 PM

First, thank you for everyone who has been trying to help me with this problem. I took the car to Lebanon Valley today. I have an MSD 7AL2 ignition box, with built in two step (2 ports for chips). I use an MSD dial for the low rpm, with a range of approximately 3000 to 4600. I unplugged both ports. I tried to foot-brake it to 3000 rpm, but it pushed through the beams. Still, I floored it, and it once again left like a slug.

On the second run, I hooked the low rpm dial back up. I thought about the secondary air door. Years ago, with the 318, we took the hood off the car, and I had my cousin run the car up on the transbrake/two-step while I watched the carburetor from beside the car. I noticed that the secondary door was opening on the two step. That being the case, I wired the secondary door open, and cautiously started the car. It actually seemed to idle a bit better. It ran a slightly better 60' (still .25 slow), and matched its best run last weekend, but with slower mph (worse air this weekend).

For the third run, I put the 318 carb on (small T-Quad). About the same 60', still running like a slug, but with a slower ET and MPH.

After staring at the car, trying to decide what to try, for half an hour, I put the big T-Quad back on. I disconnected the dial rev limiter, and put a 3400 rpm chip in. When the tree started down, I stopped watching it and focused on the fuel pressure to verify what I have posted. It stayed rock steady; no varying by more than 1/4 of a pound. The car once again left like a slug, although I can't say that it was necessarily breaking up on any of this week's runs. As soon as I had verified the fuel pressure, I let off the throttle, pulled it into 3rd gear, and stabbed it again. It slowly climbed from below 4000 rpm to just above 5000, then seemed to come to life and start running well. It wasn't breaking up. It was almost like lugging a diesel engine. Based on everything that has been said, I'm thinking torque converter again. Comments?

Mark Yacavone · 05-30-2015, 08:34 PM

SS 318? What is it supposed to stall at? A lot higher than that, I would guess.
If it doesn't go anywhere near it, it could be the sprag slipping.
How many runs? Years?

Greg Gay · 05-30-2015, 10:05 PM

Mark,

The engine in the car is a 400 Chrysler. For the last 15 years, I ran the car (80 Dodge Mirada) with a 318 engine. But now, I have the 400 in it. Just to see if the carb was the problem, I put the 318 carb (small T-Quad) on the 400 for one run, but the car acted similar, only slower. I apologize for not making that clear.

Thanks,

Greg

P.S. The torque converter currently in the car is old. Came with the car. I would say it is 20 years old, but has been setting for 15 years. The trans is a brand new Pro Trans. Less than 30 runs.

Mark Yacavone · 05-30-2015, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Gay

Mark,

The engine in the car is a 400 Chrysler. For the last 15 years, I ran the car (80 Dodge Mirada) with a 318 engine. But now, I have the 400 in it. Just to see if the carb was the problem, I put the 318 carb (small T-Quad) on the 400 for one run, but the car acted similar, only slower. I apologize for not making that clear.

Thanks,

Greg

P.S. The torque converter currently in the car is old. Came with the car. I would say it is 20 years old, but has been setting for 15 years. The trans is a brand new Pro Trans. Less than 30 runs.

Okay.So with a 3.38 stroke, I would say the stall has to be well over 5 grand Yes? No ?

slingshot · 05-30-2015, 10:13 PM

this may sound silly but have you checked the timing or your advance.

Greg Gay · 05-30-2015, 10:45 PM

At this point, no silly questions, only silly owner that can't figure it out. Yes, timing is set at 38 degrees. I also have a timing retard with a 10 degree chip in it, and when I hit the switch, it shows 28 degrees.

On the chassis dyno last fall, this torque converter showed 5000 stall, and the car would like 5700.

Eric Merryfield · 06-01-2015, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Gay

Mark,

The engine in the car is a 400 Chrysler. For the last 15 years, I ran the car (80 Dodge Mirada) with a 318 engine. But now, I have the 400 in it. Just to see if the carb was the problem, I put the 318 carb (small T-Quad) on the 400 for one run, but the car acted similar, only slower. I apologize for not making that clear.

Thanks,

Greg

P.S. The torque converter currently in the car is old. Came with the car. I would say it is 20 years old, but has been setting for 15 years. The trans is a brand new Pro Trans. Less than 30 runs.

Could you put a stick in it Greg? No more convertor drama.....Might want to keep that protrans for the Superbee,or is it a road runner, I get them confused. Eric

Greg Gay · 06-01-2015, 09:58 PM

O.K., it finally sunk into my tiny pea brain this morning that while the stator is in the torque converter, the stator SUPPORT is in the transmission. Therefore, it is conceivable that the change of converter possibly wouldn't fix the problem. I do now have a new converter ordered. What is involved in changing the stator support? If it is broken, will I see it?

Eric, I'd love to drive a stick car. I just don't know that I want to MAINTAIN one. The Stocker is a Super Bee. The bracket car is a Road Runner, but I don't think you've seen that.

05-25-2015, 09:05 PM	#1
MR DERBY CITY VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Derby City, USA Posts: 3,649 Likes: 1,085 Liked 8,046 Times in 1,527 Posts	Re: Broken Torque Converter After further review, I would definately change the carb....Been there ..Done that...Lol.!! M.J.

05-27-2015, 09:17 PM	#2
George Mirza Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: North Attleborough Ma. Posts: 522 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Broken Torque Converter Greg, Try changing the coil spring that controls the air valve. Over time they loose their tension and the air valve will flutter and not operate smoothly. Once it's open all the way the problem goes away. While your at it, check the dash pot to make sure it's not blown. Take the hose off, push it in and hold your finger over the hole in the nipple the hose goes on and if it opens the thing is junk. Last edited by George Mirza; 05-27-2015 at 09:21 PM.

05-30-2015, 06:41 PM	#3
Greg Gay Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 388 Likes: 21 Liked 286 Times in 73 Posts	Re: Broken Torque Converter First, thank you for everyone who has been trying to help me with this problem. I took the car to Lebanon Valley today. I have an MSD 7AL2 ignition box, with built in two step (2 ports for chips). I use an MSD dial for the low rpm, with a range of approximately 3000 to 4600. I unplugged both ports. I tried to foot-brake it to 3000 rpm, but it pushed through the beams. Still, I floored it, and it once again left like a slug. On the second run, I hooked the low rpm dial back up. I thought about the secondary air door. Years ago, with the 318, we took the hood off the car, and I had my cousin run the car up on the transbrake/two-step while I watched the carburetor from beside the car. I noticed that the secondary door was opening on the two step. That being the case, I wired the secondary door open, and cautiously started the car. It actually seemed to idle a bit better. It ran a slightly better 60' (still .25 slow), and matched its best run last weekend, but with slower mph (worse air this weekend). For the third run, I put the 318 carb on (small T-Quad). About the same 60', still running like a slug, but with a slower ET and MPH. After staring at the car, trying to decide what to try, for half an hour, I put the big T-Quad back on. I disconnected the dial rev limiter, and put a 3400 rpm chip in. When the tree started down, I stopped watching it and focused on the fuel pressure to verify what I have posted. It stayed rock steady; no varying by more than 1/4 of a pound. The car once again left like a slug, although I can't say that it was necessarily breaking up on any of this week's runs. As soon as I had verified the fuel pressure, I let off the throttle, pulled it into 3rd gear, and stabbed it again. It slowly climbed from below 4000 rpm to just above 5000, then seemed to come to life and start running well. It wasn't breaking up. It was almost like lugging a diesel engine. Based on everything that has been said, I'm thinking torque converter again. Comments?

05-30-2015, 08:34 PM	#4
Mark Yacavone Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Miles From Nowhere Posts: 7,821 Likes: 2,910 Liked 5,132 Times in 1,957 Posts	Re: Broken Torque Converter SS 318? What is it supposed to stall at? A lot higher than that, I would guess. If it doesn't go anywhere near it, it could be the sprag slipping. How many runs? Years? __________________ "We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers

05-30-2015, 10:05 PM	#5
Greg Gay Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 388 Likes: 21 Liked 286 Times in 73 Posts	Re: Broken Torque Converter Mark, The engine in the car is a 400 Chrysler. For the last 15 years, I ran the car (80 Dodge Mirada) with a 318 engine. But now, I have the 400 in it. Just to see if the carb was the problem, I put the 318 carb (small T-Quad) on the 400 for one run, but the car acted similar, only slower. I apologize for not making that clear. Thanks, Greg P.S. The torque converter currently in the car is old. Came with the car. I would say it is 20 years old, but has been setting for 15 years. The trans is a brand new Pro Trans. Less than 30 runs. Last edited by Greg Gay; 05-30-2015 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Clarification.

05-30-2015, 10:13 PM	#7
slingshot Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 28 Likes: 20 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: Broken Torque Converter this may sound silly but have you checked the timing or your advance.

05-30-2015, 10:45 PM	#8
Greg Gay Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 388 Likes: 21 Liked 286 Times in 73 Posts	Re: Broken Torque Converter At this point, no silly questions, only silly owner that can't figure it out. Yes, timing is set at 38 degrees. I also have a timing retard with a 10 degree chip in it, and when I hit the switch, it shows 28 degrees. On the chassis dyno last fall, this torque converter showed 5000 stall, and the car would like 5700.

06-01-2015, 09:58 PM	#10
Greg Gay Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 388 Likes: 21 Liked 286 Times in 73 Posts	Re: Broken Torque Converter O.K., it finally sunk into my tiny pea brain this morning that while the stator is in the torque converter, the stator SUPPORT is in the transmission. Therefore, it is conceivable that the change of converter possibly wouldn't fix the problem. I do now have a new converter ordered. What is involved in changing the stator support? If it is broken, will I see it? Eric, I'd love to drive a stick car. I just don't know that I want to MAINTAIN one. The Stocker is a Super Bee. The bracket car is a Road Runner, but I don't think you've seen that.