69 camaro front suspension - Page 2

chris ok · 11-09-2016, 09:44 PM

I did just that. I added tall ball joints up top. Pro forged. They helped with bump steer big time. Now have too much suspension travel. One repair makes another necessary. Is there a suspension limiter for these cars?
As the tall ball joint helped bump steer and really helped positive camber too.

SDT1DYI · 11-10-2016, 05:34 PM

You should consider installing a 4"-6" long, ( as necessary ) 5/8" NC B-7 alloy all stud in the top Arm frame. Mill two flats in top end of the stud to fit an open end wrench size you want to use to allow turning the stud.
Position the stud in the upper A frame to allow the bottom of it to contact the frame pad correctly. TIG weld a 5/8" NC heavy pattern nut to the upper A frame. Use a 5/8" NC jam nut on the stud.
Adjust the Stud so it makes contact with the frame pad before the shock travel is fully extended. Lock the jam nut down. This then is max travel position.
Then adjust the stud clockwise to limit the travel more ( log and track the number of turns you use ) when you do not need the car to rotate as much at a track where the starting line is in good condition.

Reaction time and 60ft times will improve some then

Hope all of this helps you.

CrateCamaro · 11-11-2016, 03:03 AM

I dont use any fancy tall ball joints...never heated any components to reshape and i have great bump steer with less then 3/8 toe in or out throughout the complete travel. Sounds too me like there isnt enough caster in the car to be honest. My tie rods are completely level at ride height, nose in the weeds with less then a 1/2 inch between the lower bump stop and frame with 6 1/2 inches of upward travel and the toe is set to 1/16 in at ride height. Id make sure noone has put a cheap set of drop spindles on the car previously or maybe something is bent? Id be looking at the alignment before i changed anything. 1/16 to an 1/8 toe in with as much positive caster as possible to start. I still have the original 68 control arms loaded with global west bushings...moog replacement steering components and Afco low friction ball joints with moroso springs.

Terry Cain · 11-11-2016, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDT1DYI

You should consider installing a 4"-6" long, ( as necessary ) 5/8" NC B-7 alloy all stud in the top Arm frame. Mill two flats in top end of the stud to fit an open end wrench size you want to use to allow turning the stud.
Position the stud in the upper A frame to allow the bottom of it to contact the frame pad correctly. TIG weld a 5/8" NC heavy pattern nut to the upper A frame. Use a 5/8" NC jam nut on the stud.
Adjust the Stud so it makes contact with the frame pad before the shock travel is fully extended. Lock the jam nut down. This then is max travel position.
Then adjust the stud clockwise to limit the travel more ( log and track the number of turns you use ) when you do not need the car to rotate as much at a track where the starting line is in good condition.

Reaction time and 60ft times will improve some then

Hope all of this helps you.

NOT LEGAL in Stock.

Alan Nyhus · 11-11-2016, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris ok

I did just that. I added tall ball joints up top. Pro forged. Now have too much suspension travel. One repair makes another necessary. Is there a suspension limiter for these cars?

Use these in the upper control arms in place of the factory rubber bumpers. You can trim them and/or add washers to adjust how tall they are. Replacing the supplied self locking nuts with a serrated flange nut makes changing them a bunch easier.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...61860/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...61861/10002/-1

Run to Rund · 11-12-2016, 12:21 PM

In the 1970s (I'm also old!) I plotted toe-in vs. inches of lift and found that the last couple inches of lift caused the big increases in toe-in. The no-dollar solution was to lower the front and use snubbers under the upper A arms that were thick enough to prevent those last couple inches. I could still get about 5-6" of travel, iirc.

11-09-2016, 09:44 PM	#11
chris ok Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Long Island, New york Posts: 592 Likes: 131 Liked 46 Times in 29 Posts	Re: 69 camaro front suspension I did just that. I added tall ball joints up top. Pro forged. They helped with bump steer big time. Now have too much suspension travel. One repair makes another necessary. Is there a suspension limiter for these cars? As the tall ball joint helped bump steer and really helped positive camber too.

11-10-2016, 05:34 PM	#12
SDT1DYI Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Indianola Washington Posts: 397 Likes: 0 Liked 453 Times in 146 Posts	Re: 69 camaro front suspension You should consider installing a 4"-6" long, ( as necessary ) 5/8" NC B-7 alloy all stud in the top Arm frame. Mill two flats in top end of the stud to fit an open end wrench size you want to use to allow turning the stud. Position the stud in the upper A frame to allow the bottom of it to contact the frame pad correctly. TIG weld a 5/8" NC heavy pattern nut to the upper A frame. Use a 5/8" NC jam nut on the stud. Adjust the Stud so it makes contact with the frame pad before the shock travel is fully extended. Lock the jam nut down. This then is max travel position. Then adjust the stud clockwise to limit the travel more ( log and track the number of turns you use ) when you do not need the car to rotate as much at a track where the starting line is in good condition. Reaction time and 60ft times will improve some then Hope all of this helps you.

11-11-2016, 03:03 AM	#13
CrateCamaro Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 411 Likes: 1 Liked 19 Times in 7 Posts	Re: 69 camaro front suspension I dont use any fancy tall ball joints...never heated any components to reshape and i have great bump steer with less then 3/8 toe in or out throughout the complete travel. Sounds too me like there isnt enough caster in the car to be honest. My tie rods are completely level at ride height, nose in the weeds with less then a 1/2 inch between the lower bump stop and frame with 6 1/2 inches of upward travel and the toe is set to 1/16 in at ride height. Id make sure noone has put a cheap set of drop spindles on the car previously or maybe something is bent? Id be looking at the alignment before i changed anything. 1/16 to an 1/8 toe in with as much positive caster as possible to start. I still have the original 68 control arms loaded with global west bushings...moog replacement steering components and Afco low friction ball joints with moroso springs. __________________ Tony Valerio 1968 Camaro 1700 IHRA H/CM 1701 NHRA SS/?A

11-12-2016, 12:21 PM	#16
Run to Rund Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 583 Likes: 8 Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts	Re: 69 camaro front suspension In the 1970s (I'm also old!) I plotted toe-in vs. inches of lift and found that the last couple inches of lift caused the big increases in toe-in. The no-dollar solution was to lower the front and use snubbers under the upper A arms that were thick enough to prevent those last couple inches. I could still get about 5-6" of travel, iirc.