Quote:
Originally Posted by cmracing
You are wasting your time and money unless you fix your power issues to your fuel pump. Raising the pressure will make things worse!
You should have a 10 gauge wire feeding the fuel pump. All the EFI cars I wire have a relay in the back, close to the battery, 20 amp fuse between the battery and relay. All wiring from battery to relay to fuel pump is 10 gauge. I also use a 4 pole battery disconnect switch. The smaller terminals on the switch are used to remove the power from the relay coil so when you hit the disconnect switch the engine stops immediately even if you have a working alternator (which I highly recommend you do).
I had a friend with a BS/A swap between 42lb/hr injectors and 60lb/hr injectors within 10 minutes for back to back passes. With keeping the A/F the same, the car ran identical. Don't listen to people telling you that large injectors are a problem.
Been doing this since 1986 and I'm not on here trying to solicit business. Several here know me. I don't have time or the inclination to take on any new projects anyway, just trying to steer you straight.
If you can't get and maintain 12.5 volts at the fuel pump park the car! Get a working alternator and that pump will be MUCH happier at 13.5 to 14.0 volts. So will the injectors.
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This is a smart preventative maintenance mod that is overlooked.
Our B-Body Impala/Caprice community also suffer from Fuel Pump Problems.
Key issue; GM used just enough gauge size for their Harnesses.
Over time you have dodgy fuel pumps, burned wires, corroded connectors and blown fuses.
Last week the Caprice Wagon Fuel Pump fussed at 240,000 miles.
Bought a Racetronic Harness a while back which has a larger gage wire.
Installed it with a new Delco Fuel Sending Unit and Fuel Pump.
All of a sudden the Fuel Gauge works properly again and drivability improved.
D