Hardblock?

randy wilson · 06-09-2017, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monte Howard

Save yourself the aggravation, I hard blocked my 010 block and went .060. With new cp pistons. After the 1st pass the car slowed down. Made about 20 more runs on it. Tore it apart this winter and the cylinders where .008 out of round. And my new pistons skirts where scuffed really bad. Do yourself a favor and just get a SHP block and be done with it.

This guy found the same thing I found out.

SSDiv6 · 06-09-2017, 01:00 PM

If you want the best, use MasterFlow 885, formerly known as Embeco 885.

MasterFlow 885 has a metallic aggregate, it is non-shrinking and way stronger than HardBlock or the Moroso product after cured.

carl hinkson · 06-09-2017, 05:29 PM

My rule of thumb if you have to fill the block your using the wrong block,

Cylinders change during heat cycles and and never come back to the original machined size.

David Lee · 06-09-2017, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

My rule of thumb if you have to fill the block your using the wrong block,

Cylinders change during heat cycles and and never come back to the original machined size.

So every combo that can not get an aftermarket block should just stop building engines. That is what you are basically saying

Jim Hanig · 06-09-2017, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lee

So every combo that can not get an aftermarket block should just stop building engines. That is what you are basically saying

Which engine wòuld that be?

David Lee · 06-09-2017, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Hanig

Which engine wòuld that be?

go look at the replacement blocks listed by the nhra, and try to find some of the rarer combo's. This idea having to run a replacement block and spend vast amount of money to compete will be the nail in the coffin for many people.

Adger Smith · 06-10-2017, 01:47 AM

I have never experienced any of the out of round problems.
Over the last 30 years I have filled blocks for Circle track, Drag and mud racers as well as boat racers. A few years ago I took a late mod 305 and filled it and bored it to std. 283 for a boat race class. Freshened it once and I think it is still going.
I use a Machine grout and I let it harden at least a month before doing any machine work. I also increase the Piston to wall clearance by at least 40 -50 % . I always test piston growth before deciding on the final cold bore clearance. A water block cylinder moves, a filled block does not and the pistons still grow with the hot oil and combustion heat on them.
Allow for it. On the circle track Applications I only fill to the oil galley holes in the lifter bores. My theory on that is still have water in that part of the cylinder to pull heat out of the oil going through the lifter galleys.
Seems to keep oil temps in check.

carl hinkson · 06-10-2017, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lee

go look at the replacement blocks listed by the nhra, and try to find some of the rarer combo's. This idea having to run a replacement block and spend vast amount of money to compete will be the nail in the coffin for many people.

Work with an old OEM block that is worn out and needs lifter bore bushings, clean & mag sonic test, deck bore, plate hone, better main caps, line bore and line hone, bore and plate hone, add all that up and and after market block is the way to go.

carl hinkson · 06-10-2017, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Lee

So every combo that can not get an aftermarket block should just stop building engines. That is what you are basically saying

Sounds like your being a dick head LOL

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

95% of my circle track engines I have built for the last 40 years have been OEM block.

Now I am sure you will find something else to cry about LOL

David Lee · 06-10-2017, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

Sounds like your being a dick head LOL

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

95% of my circle track engines I have built for the last 40 years have been OEM block.

Now I am sure you will find something else to cry about LOL

You just contradicted yourself. thanks for proving my point.

06-09-2017, 01:00 PM	#2
SSDiv6 VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Glendale, Arizona Posts: 3,044 Likes: 712 Liked 1,580 Times in 582 Posts	Re: Hardblock? If you want the best, use MasterFlow 885, formerly known as Embeco 885. MasterFlow 885 has a metallic aggregate, it is non-shrinking and way stronger than HardBlock or the Moroso product after cured.

06-09-2017, 05:29 PM	#3
carl hinkson Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NORTHEAST Posts: 287 Likes: 1 Liked 18 Times in 10 Posts	Re: Hardblock? My rule of thumb if you have to fill the block your using the wrong block, Cylinders change during heat cycles and and never come back to the original machined size.

06-10-2017, 01:47 AM	#7
Adger Smith VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Texarkana Ark/TX Posts: 2,446 Likes: 575 Liked 880 Times in 311 Posts	Re: Hardblock? I have never experienced any of the out of round problems. Over the last 30 years I have filled blocks for Circle track, Drag and mud racers as well as boat racers. A few years ago I took a late mod 305 and filled it and bored it to std. 283 for a boat race class. Freshened it once and I think it is still going. I use a Machine grout and I let it harden at least a month before doing any machine work. I also increase the Piston to wall clearance by at least 40 -50 % . I always test piston growth before deciding on the final cold bore clearance. A water block cylinder moves, a filled block does not and the pistons still grow with the hot oil and combustion heat on them. Allow for it. On the circle track Applications I only fill to the oil galley holes in the lifter bores. My theory on that is still have water in that part of the cylinder to pull heat out of the oil going through the lifter galleys. Seems to keep oil temps in check. __________________ Adger Smith (Former SS)