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#1 | |
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#2 |
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![]() No....spacers!. This year seen a few cars at various drag strips loose wheels. Bit more than years before. Moser Studs my car uses are supposedly made from high grade steel. Figured 110Lb was ok.. was using 85# when they broke. Some performance wheels are tightened to 110. I had never broken any in 40 years of racing until last year. Now more cautious checking the Lug Nuts before each race. D |
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#3 |
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After re installing wheels I re torque after the first run. Usually find a few that need to
be re torqued.
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John Dinkel 3295 STK |
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#4 |
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Never more than 90# with aluminum wheels! Never less than 75#. 110 is too much stress on the studs. Jim
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Jim Wahl....NHRA #2239 S/SS - IHRA # 8 Stock, D2 Stock Champion (forever I guess) 2019 Baby Gators Stock Champion 2009 NHRA D2 National Open Stock Champion 1982 NHRA D2 West Palm Beach LDRS SS Runner Up Past President, Southern Stock / Super Stock Association. ![]() |
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#5 |
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I think its possible to over torque wheels that have an inner spacer. After they have been over torqued they begin to rattle when off the car or when being rotated or even rotate where the universal bolt pattern will not align up then if the shank or shoulder does not protrude thru the wheel and the inner spacer has been crushed due to over torqueing when it gets torqued then the nut bottoms out on the shoulder and it may be a little loose allowing it to snap them off ! I like mine torqued at 85ft.lbs for the rear and 65ft.lbs on the fronts also helps keep the rotors from warping from over doing it
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Brett McFarland A/S |
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#6 |
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https://www.weldwheels.com/wp-conten...ifications.pdf
https://arpinstructions.com/generaltorque.html ARP says 125 ft. lbs. Weld says 85-95 ft. lbs. |
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#7 |
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First you have to find out if they're braking or shearing off. The clamping effect between wheel and axel flange has more to do with the wheel staying on. If it slips, gone. A 6D common nail has about a 2000 lb shear force, I would think the 1/2 stud would be stronger.
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#8 |
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Thought that Moser Studs were higher quality than Stock Studs.
Hence tightening to 110# for better clamping force. Plus advice from another racer that did the same. When the left wheel came off the Studs were supposed to be at 85#. From Coleydogs post....Breaking or Shearing? They look like they broke, one had fallen out without me knowing it. Plus did not check them in a couple months, which I do now often !!!!!!! So that would indicate they were loose. Correct? Bought new Studs and Axles from Moser as the Splines were even bent. Adding one more experience. After installing the new axles and studs they were Clamped to 85#. At the track checked them and they were loose and reset them to 85#. Made a few Q runs and they were loose again. This time clamped them to 110#. Checked after the race they were at 110# This last week pulled all the wheels off and examined the. Discovered some of the Steel Washers were deformed. Cleaned the surface of the holes in the wheels and replaced all the Washers and few Lug Nuts. Never had Steel Washers deform like these did. Going to contact ARP to learn what Steel Washers they have. Think I need a better quality. Are Studs from ARP, Moser and others are made by different Manufacturers? Dan Last edited by Dan Fahey; 07-02-2018 at 11:07 AM. |
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#9 |
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Not that it applies in this case but I'm just saying that over my years of working drag racing I have found that when I've been called to the starting line to look at broken wheel studs, a lot of times there is a wheel spacer involved.
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