360 mopar oiling issue

Tom Broome · 08-01-2018, 08:04 AM

So who here has been through tech with oil lines in the lifter valley?
NHRA used to take a dim view of those practices in Stock and Super Stock, has it changed? Or does it depend on the Tech Inspector?

A while back, I used some tubing on a Small Block Chev to make it live with minimal oil pressure, and improve drain back. That resulted in an ugly Indy tear down.

Back to the question. If it was my engine, I would start by bushing the lifter bores, not much fun on 59 degree blocks. Then track down all of the remaining leaks, like the cam plate.

CMcAllister · 08-01-2018, 12:56 PM

I blocked oil to the left galley at the #1 main bore. Bushed all the lifter bores. Oil to all of the cam bearings was restricted way down.

Oil for the heads (stock OE LA style oiling through the deck) was taken off of the 2 and 4 cam bearings and provided by plumbing under the intake. It was also restricted. Rocker gear wear showed a slight increase in wear, but I was running a fairly mild roller with not a ton of spring pressure and Crane Gold rockers.

Port matched the pump and the rear cap. Massaged and enlarged every galley in the back of the block. Put a big pump in and used dual pickups.

An external line was used for simplicity. Not allowed on a legal engine, but as I read the rules, plumbing under the intake would be OK for SS. Not sure about Stock since it's not "external" but it's also not "as produced".

In the end, the only thing getting oil from the main RS galley was the crank and 4 small jets for the cam bearings. The top end was plumbed separate from the crank and was controlled.

I blew up one engine and had to check the filter every few runs, and replace rod inserts on one or two rods every 6 or 7 runs to keep from blowing up #2. After putzing around with pans, big oil pumps, crossdrilled crank, 3/4 grooved bearings, with no help, I just took it apart and completely re-did the oil system. Went to staying together all season, filter looked pretty good all season, and not looking too bad at the winter freshen. Just had to watch the rocker gear and pushrods.

Plenty of other folks are running these things over 7k with OE cranks and they may be doing something different. Some are installing the cam bearings to cover all the holes and redrilling them whatever size they think is correct. I used drilled plugs that could be changed easily if needed. My stock crank 340s were never this fussy at 7800, until I cut an iron 360 crank to go into a 340 block to get some cheap stroke. Something about the 360s and that iron crank.

GTSDart · 08-01-2018, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

I blocked oil to the left galley at the #1 main bore. Bushed all the lifter bores. Oil to all of the cam bearings was restricted way down.

Oil for the heads (stock OE LA style oiling through the deck) was taken off of the 2 and 4 cam bearings and provided by plumbing under the intake. It was also restricted. Rocker gear wear showed a slight increase in wear, but I was running a fairly mild roller with not a ton of spring pressure and Crane Gold rockers.

Port matched the pump and the rear cap. Massaged and enlarged every galley in the back of the block. Put a big pump in and used dual pickups.

An external line was used for simplicity. Not allowed on a legal engine, but as I read the rules, plumbing under the intake would be OK for SS. Not sure about Stock since it's not "external" but it's also not "as produced".

In the end, the only thing getting oil from the main RS galley was the crank and 4 small jets for the cam bearings. The top end was plumbed separate from the crank and was controlled.

I blew up one engine and had to check the filter every few runs, and replace rod inserts on one or two rods every 6 or 7 runs to keep from blowing up #2. After putzing around with pans, big oil pumps, crossdrilled crank, 3/4 grooved bearings, with no help, I just took it apart and completely re-did the oil system. Went to staying together all season, filter looked pretty good all season, and not looking too bad at the winter freshen. Just had to watch the rocker gear and pushrods.

Plenty of other folks are running these things over 7k with OE cranks and they may be doing something different. Some are installing the cam bearings to cover all the holes and redrilling them whatever size they think is correct. I used drilled plugs that could be changed easily if needed. My stock crank 340s were never this fussy at 7800, until I cut an iron 360 crank to go into a 340 block to get some cheap stroke. Something about the 360s and that iron crank.

Do you recall the size of restriction you used to the valve train and to the cam bearings?

dondon · 08-01-2018, 11:50 PM

one web site says to drill a new cam brg hole 1/8 th inch for 1, 3, and 5.

Kenny McCoy · 08-02-2018, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTSDart

Do you recall the size of restriction you used to the valve train and to the cam bearings?

.030 to the cam bearings and heads is all that is needed.
What Larry said clear neutral lets valve springs live longer.

CMcAllister · 08-02-2018, 12:50 PM

I'm not sure, but they were small. .035 maybe. Slightly more for the heads. I wanted to get oil on the crank and keep it there instead of squirting off in other directions. A lot of oil will come through a .035 hole with 60 PSI behind it. .125" holes in the cam bearings is a number I've seen and that sounds way bigger than it needs to be. .125" x 4 is a big oil leak.

dondon · 08-07-2018, 10:56 PM

dynoed new motor today, made 8 pulls. Pulled oil pan and number 3 rod bearing looked real nice. Happy for the time being.

GTSDart · 08-08-2018, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dondon

dynoed new motor today, made 8 pulls. Pulled oil pan and number 3 rod bearing looked real nice. Happy for the time being.

Good to hear...

08-01-2018, 11:50 PM	#4
dondon Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 29 Likes: 10 Liked 10 Times in 5 Posts	Re: 360 mopar oiling issue one web site says to drill a new cam brg hole 1/8 th inch for 1, 3, and 5.

08-02-2018, 12:50 PM	#6
CMcAllister Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Fulton County, PA Posts: 621 Likes: 17 Liked 927 Times in 263 Posts	Re: 360 mopar oiling issue I'm not sure, but they were small. .035 maybe. Slightly more for the heads. I wanted to get oil on the crank and keep it there instead of squirting off in other directions. A lot of oil will come through a .035 hole with 60 PSI behind it. .125" holes in the cam bearings is a number I've seen and that sounds way bigger than it needs to be. .125" x 4 is a big oil leak.

08-07-2018, 10:56 PM	#7
dondon Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 29 Likes: 10 Liked 10 Times in 5 Posts	Re: 360 mopar oiling issue dynoed new motor today, made 8 pulls. Pulled oil pan and number 3 rod bearing looked real nice. Happy for the time being.

08-01-2018, 08:04 AM	#1
Tom Broome Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 144 Likes: 80 Liked 88 Times in 43 Posts	Re: 360 mopar oiling issue So who here has been through tech with oil lines in the lifter valley? NHRA used to take a dim view of those practices in Stock and Super Stock, has it changed? Or does it depend on the Tech Inspector? A while back, I used some tubing on a Small Block Chev to make it live with minimal oil pressure, and improve drain back. That resulted in an ugly Indy tear down. Back to the question. If it was my engine, I would start by bushing the lifter bores, not much fun on 59 degree blocks. Then track down all of the remaining leaks, like the cam plate. Last edited by Tom Broome; 08-01-2018 at 08:49 AM.

08-01-2018, 12:56 PM	#2
CMcAllister Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Fulton County, PA Posts: 621 Likes: 17 Liked 927 Times in 263 Posts	Re: 360 mopar oiling issue I blocked oil to the left galley at the #1 main bore. Bushed all the lifter bores. Oil to all of the cam bearings was restricted way down. Oil for the heads (stock OE LA style oiling through the deck) was taken off of the 2 and 4 cam bearings and provided by plumbing under the intake. It was also restricted. Rocker gear wear showed a slight increase in wear, but I was running a fairly mild roller with not a ton of spring pressure and Crane Gold rockers. Port matched the pump and the rear cap. Massaged and enlarged every galley in the back of the block. Put a big pump in and used dual pickups. An external line was used for simplicity. Not allowed on a legal engine, but as I read the rules, plumbing under the intake would be OK for SS. Not sure about Stock since it's not "external" but it's also not "as produced". In the end, the only thing getting oil from the main RS galley was the crank and 4 small jets for the cam bearings. The top end was plumbed separate from the crank and was controlled. I blew up one engine and had to check the filter every few runs, and replace rod inserts on one or two rods every 6 or 7 runs to keep from blowing up #2. After putzing around with pans, big oil pumps, crossdrilled crank, 3/4 grooved bearings, with no help, I just took it apart and completely re-did the oil system. Went to staying together all season, filter looked pretty good all season, and not looking too bad at the winter freshen. Just had to watch the rocker gear and pushrods. Plenty of other folks are running these things over 7k with OE cranks and they may be doing something different. Some are installing the cam bearings to cover all the holes and redrilling them whatever size they think is correct. I used drilled plugs that could be changed easily if needed. My stock crank 340s were never this fussy at 7800, until I cut an iron 360 crank to go into a 340 block to get some cheap stroke. Something about the 360s and that iron crank. Last edited by CMcAllister; 08-01-2018 at 12:59 PM.