Before I put this on

Coleydog · 11-01-2018, 12:20 AM

My thinking, might be wrong but, would the electrical switch run the battery down during the week then let the oil charge bleed off defeating the pre-lube benefited? Reason I was thinking mechanical.
By the way the cylinder is about 4" diameter and 18" long, how many quarts is that?
Mike

Darrel Goheen · 11-01-2018, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coleydog

My thinking, might be wrong but, would the electrical switch run the battery down during the week then let the oil charge bleed off defeating the pre-lube benefited? Reason I was thinking mechanical.

You would want to use a normally closed electric valve. Valve opens with power. Closed with no power.

nhramnl · 11-01-2018, 06:53 AM

You guys are overthinking it. You have the electric valve accumulator. It can only be open (allowing oil to flow from the accumulator) or closed (not allowing oil to flow from the accumulator). You open the valve before you start the engine for the first time (for example, at the first day at a race). You leave the valve open all day long, and at the end of the day, when it's time to put the car back in the trailer, the last thing you do is raise the engine RPM (and therefore, the oil pressure) a little bit, for a few seconds. This "charges" the accumulator. You then close the valve and repeat the procedure on Day 2, Day 3, etc.

Eman · 11-01-2018, 09:58 AM

There's plenty written by the manufacturers of these oil cans to find out how to install it. Think about how it works and where the oil will go if there is no oil pressure, keep in mind oil will take the path of least resistance.
Usually the electric controlled valve will be wired to an oil pressure switch so it opens when oil pressure drops. The electric valve are usually 1 way check valves so the in is always open and the out is controlled by the switch.

Coleydog · 11-01-2018, 11:33 AM

Sound good, I was thinking the switch worked the other way. I'll leave it like it is. I like the idea of attaching to a low pressure oil switch so it's not energized all the time. Any other pointers?

CMcAllister · 11-01-2018, 01:34 PM

ON is open in either direction. OFF is closed stopping oil from moving to the engine while allowing it to charge the can until pressure is equalized with engine pressure. Having the valve ON while on track, as opposed to using a pressure switch, allows the accumulator to "catch" a sudden pressure drop before it reaches a low point and keep the galleries full, since the can is charged to engine oil pressure. Having it open all the time requires the oil pump to recharge the can every time the engine is started since it will dump into the engine with the valve open. An electric valve also allows mounting in places that may be difficult to get to in order to operate a manual valve. I quickly found it inconvenient to have to start the engine, allow the can to charge, close the valve and shut the engine off at the end of the day. Just my experience with it.

nhramnl · 11-01-2018, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

ON is open in either direction. OFF is closed stopping oil from moving to the engine while allowing it to charge the can until pressure is equalized with engine pressure. Having the valve ON while on track, as opposed to using a pressure switch, allows the accumulator to "catch" a sudden pressure drop before it reaches a low point and keep the galleries full, since the can is charged to engine oil pressure. Having it open all the time requires the oil pump to recharge the can every time the engine is started since it will dump into the engine with the valve open. An electric valve also allows mounting in places that may be difficult to get to in order to operate a manual valve. I quickly found it inconvenient to have to start the engine, allow the can to charge, close the valve and shut the engine off at the end of the day. Just my experience with it.

Absolutely NOT trying to be difficult, but I don't understand your comments about having to start the engine to re-charge the accumulator during the day, and about the inconvenience of charging it at the end of the day. The primary purpose of an accumulator is provide an "insurance" oil supply in a situation like the one that's often encountered past the finish line. Why would you charge it after every run? As you say, it's function is "controlled" by engine oil pressure. It "takes care of itself". After the initial morning start & warmup, the engine remains relatively warm and is certainly primed. At the end of the day, you put the front wheels on the trailer ramp, raise the engine speed a bit, close the valve and winch the car in. What am I missing?

Coleydog · 11-01-2018, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

ON is open in either direction. OFF is closed stopping oil from moving to the engine while allowing it to charge the can until pressure is equalized with engine pressure. Having the valve ON while on track, as opposed to using a pressure switch, allows the accumulator to "catch" a sudden pressure drop before it reaches a low point and keep the galleries full, since the can is charged to engine oil pressure. Having it open all the time requires the oil pump to recharge the can every time the engine is started since it will dump into the engine with the valve open. An electric valve also allows mounting in places that may be difficult to get to in order to operate a manual valve. I quickly found it inconvenient to have to start the engine, allow the can to charge, close the valve and shut the engine off at the end of the day. Just my experience with it.

Do you have a separate switch for the unit or just tie into the ign switch? Engine running, it's open, engine off, closed?

Chevy55 · 11-01-2018, 07:05 PM

I have a little different school of thought on starting and running an engine with an accusump.

If you start the engine with the valve open and the accusump empty it takes awhile for a cold engine to build oil pressure because the accusump will be filling the same time that you want all the oil going thru the motor.

I like the manual valve because I can keep it closed when starting the engine and then open it slowly only causing a slight drop in oil pressure when filling the accusump then leave the valve open for the rest of the day.

I run a 1 1/2 qt accusump with the engine at normal oil level, 7 qts with a 7 qt pan and nothing extra for the accusump, this lowers the oil level in the engine during the run, reducing splash and increasing HP.

My problem was losing oil pressure in the traps and using this procedure solved that problem because as soon as oil pressure dropped on shutdown the accusump would push oil back into the motor keeping the oil pressure up till the oil in the pan stabilized.

IMO it's like having the best of both worlds, steady oil pressure and a low oil level.

Eman · 11-01-2018, 07:30 PM

Also keep in mind if you change your engine oil and you want to change all of it you have to empty the accusump too.
How and where you plumb it in is important. If you open the accusump with the engine off it might make the gauge go up, but is it flowing through .003 clearance or is it dumping back through the oil pump 1/2" hole and back into the pan?

11-01-2018, 12:20 AM	#1
Coleydog Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 569 Likes: 36 Liked 53 Times in 38 Posts	Re: Before I put this on My thinking, might be wrong but, would the electrical switch run the battery down during the week then let the oil charge bleed off defeating the pre-lube benefited? Reason I was thinking mechanical. By the way the cylinder is about 4" diameter and 18" long, how many quarts is that? Mike

11-01-2018, 06:53 AM	#3
nhramnl Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 507 Likes: 8 Liked 358 Times in 83 Posts	Re: Before I put this on You guys are overthinking it. You have the electric valve accumulator. It can only be open (allowing oil to flow from the accumulator) or closed (not allowing oil to flow from the accumulator). You open the valve before you start the engine for the first time (for example, at the first day at a race). You leave the valve open all day long, and at the end of the day, when it's time to put the car back in the trailer, the last thing you do is raise the engine RPM (and therefore, the oil pressure) a little bit, for a few seconds. This "charges" the accumulator. You then close the valve and repeat the procedure on Day 2, Day 3, etc.

11-01-2018, 09:58 AM	#4
Eman Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: E TN Posts: 472 Likes: 16 Liked 133 Times in 76 Posts	Re: Before I put this on There's plenty written by the manufacturers of these oil cans to find out how to install it. Think about how it works and where the oil will go if there is no oil pressure, keep in mind oil will take the path of least resistance. Usually the electric controlled valve will be wired to an oil pressure switch so it opens when oil pressure drops. The electric valve are usually 1 way check valves so the in is always open and the out is controlled by the switch.

11-01-2018, 11:33 AM	#5
Coleydog Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 569 Likes: 36 Liked 53 Times in 38 Posts	Re: Before I put this on Sound good, I was thinking the switch worked the other way. I'll leave it like it is. I like the idea of attaching to a low pressure oil switch so it's not energized all the time. Any other pointers?

11-01-2018, 01:34 PM	#6
CMcAllister Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Fulton County, PA Posts: 612 Likes: 16 Liked 915 Times in 257 Posts	Re: Before I put this on ON is open in either direction. OFF is closed stopping oil from moving to the engine while allowing it to charge the can until pressure is equalized with engine pressure. Having the valve ON while on track, as opposed to using a pressure switch, allows the accumulator to "catch" a sudden pressure drop before it reaches a low point and keep the galleries full, since the can is charged to engine oil pressure. Having it open all the time requires the oil pump to recharge the can every time the engine is started since it will dump into the engine with the valve open. An electric valve also allows mounting in places that may be difficult to get to in order to operate a manual valve. I quickly found it inconvenient to have to start the engine, allow the can to charge, close the valve and shut the engine off at the end of the day. Just my experience with it.

11-01-2018, 07:05 PM	#9
Chevy55 Banned Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 324 Likes: 625 Liked 179 Times in 89 Posts	Re: Before I put this on I have a little different school of thought on starting and running an engine with an accusump. If you start the engine with the valve open and the accusump empty it takes awhile for a cold engine to build oil pressure because the accusump will be filling the same time that you want all the oil going thru the motor. I like the manual valve because I can keep it closed when starting the engine and then open it slowly only causing a slight drop in oil pressure when filling the accusump then leave the valve open for the rest of the day. I run a 1 1/2 qt accusump with the engine at normal oil level, 7 qts with a 7 qt pan and nothing extra for the accusump, this lowers the oil level in the engine during the run, reducing splash and increasing HP. My problem was losing oil pressure in the traps and using this procedure solved that problem because as soon as oil pressure dropped on shutdown the accusump would push oil back into the motor keeping the oil pressure up till the oil in the pan stabilized. IMO it's like having the best of both worlds, steady oil pressure and a low oil level.

11-01-2018, 07:30 PM	#10
Eman Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: E TN Posts: 472 Likes: 16 Liked 133 Times in 76 Posts	Re: Before I put this on Also keep in mind if you change your engine oil and you want to change all of it you have to empty the accusump too. How and where you plumb it in is important. If you open the accusump with the engine off it might make the gauge go up, but is it flowing through .003 clearance or is it dumping back through the oil pump 1/2" hole and back into the pan?