Anyone try an Ecotec in Stock yet?

[Mike Jones]

Using a calculator (http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php),
It says you will need 163 hp to run .5 under, assuming you lose the 180lbs (2830). Good luck
Mike

[Mike Meier]

Okay, came across these 19.5 x 7 - 13 inch asphalt oval slicks from Hoosier. I'm assuming that "IN2" is the compound but can't find any info on it. Does anyone know about that compound at all?

https://shop.hoosiertire.com/index.p...-7-13-in2.html

Mike Jones - I figured I'd have to free-up / make up to 170 and be comfortably under the index. When I ran my 16.90s a while back I just had the car in "drive"; I didn't want to over rev an engine that didn't belong to me (took it out to the track while she was away for work). But then I read that "L" will do the 1-2 shift for you, then pop it into "I" and it will do the 2-3 shift.

Come to think of it, my runs were on a "no prep" night, then when it was dyno'ed it was one of those dyno nights at a local tuner, and they weren't able to get the car to hold in 3rd gear.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by Mike Meier

Okay, came across these 19.5 x 7 - 13 inch asphalt oval slicks from Hoosier.

Better install front brakes from a Geo then. Maybe Billy's got some.

[Mike Meier]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Better install front brakes from a Geo then. Maybe Billy's got some.

Well I just ordered one rim from Jegs with 3.5 in back-spacing and we'll see if it clears the front brakes.

[Tom Meyer]

My sons and I have raced dirt track IMCA with a eco powered cavilers since 2012 and have done a lot of wheel dyno work. We must run stock exhaust manifold so I am sure a good header would make more power. With this being a VVT engine it should make more power than non VVT engine than we run. We also did a lot of testing on the air intake system and a open TB makes about 4.5 hp more than a cold air system. The intake manifold is the biggest restrictions on these motors, early on till outlawed you could just bolt on a later model 2.4 intake and pickup over 25 hp. Baseline hp at the wheel was 135 hp with limited mods, tuned stock ecm, stock cams, injectors stock exhaust manifold with a bigger pipe with some other small mods brought the power to around 150 at the wheel. Camshaft lift is 419 a the valve. Changing the valve angle helped flow on the flow bench but did not do any back to back dyno testing. I am sure a good stocker valve job would help. Eliminating the balance shafts with a kit gets rid of rotating weight. We run manual trans so never did much with the autos. Saturn VUES run the same basic set up but are geared lower because of the heaver vehicle. With the stick It goes from a 3.94 final chevy to a 4.45 Saturn, HHRs have 4.19. Checking out these cars with an auto could find something. The stock valve train will turn 7000 all day long, stronger valve springs would collapse the lifters and lose lift in long lap races. The rear of the cam gear can be ground to change cam timing or aftermarket adjustable gears are available. If you could find someone to regrind the cams mite help also. I always thought someday this would be a fun combo to do but, hell I cain't even get my SS car going. Tom.

[Mike Meier]

Originally Posted by Tom Meyer

My sons and I have raced dirt track IMCA with a eco powered cavilers since 2012 and have done a lot of wheel dyno work. We must run stock exhaust manifold so I am sure a good header would make more power. With this being a VVT engine it should make more power than non VVT engine than we run. We also did a lot of testing on the air intake system and a open TB makes about 4.5 hp more than a cold air system. The intake manifold is the biggest restrictions on these motors, early on till outlawed you could just bolt on a later model 2.4 intake and pickup over 25 hp. Baseline hp at the wheel was 135 hp with limited mods, tuned stock ecm, stock cams, injectors stock exhaust manifold with a bigger pipe with some other small mods brought the power to around 150 at the wheel. Camshaft lift is 419 a the valve. Changing the valve angle helped flow on the flow bench but did not do any back to back dyno testing. I am sure a good stocker valve job would help. Eliminating the balance shafts with a kit gets rid of rotating weight. We run manual trans so never did much with the autos. Saturn VUES run the same basic set up but are geared lower because of the heaver vehicle. With the stick It goes from a 3.94 final chevy to a 4.45 Saturn, HHRs have 4.19. Checking out these cars with an auto could find something. The stock valve train will turn 7000 all day long, stronger valve springs would collapse the lifters and lose lift in long lap races. The rear of the cam gear can be ground to change cam timing or aftermarket adjustable gears are available. If you could find someone to regrind the cams mite help also. I always thought someday this would be a fun combo to do but, hell I cain't even get my SS car going. Tom.

Thanks for all that info on the transmissions and all the other engine intel I'll keep that all in mind if this gets underway and gets serious down the road. There are a lot of "ifs" involved since this is really to hold me over while my dragster is waiting to go into the shop. (4 month waiting list to get in the door, season starts in March and goes to July).

A far as wheels go, are you using 13 inch or 15 inch rims on your dirt track cars?

That's the first big hump with the Cobalt, is being able to use 13 inch rims with a 20 inch tall slick. I don't want to have to change transmissions or swap to a Geo Metro brake set-up (which may not work for me anyway since the Geo Metro bolt pattern may different than the Cobalt from what I read).

[nhramnl]

I've thought about a Solstice as a stocker. Longitudinal engine, traditional trans and rear end configuration and a nice short wheelbase. Also, a decent looking little car. Available either NA or turbocharged.

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by Mike Meier

Okay, came across these 19.5 x 7 - 13 inch asphalt oval slicks from Hoosier. I'm assuming that "IN2" is the compound but can't find any info on it. Does anyone know about that compound at all?

https://shop.hoosiertire.com/index.p...-7-13-in2.html

Mike Jones - I figured I'd have to free-up / make up to 170 and be comfortably under the index. When I ran my 16.90s a while back I just had the car in "drive"; I didn't want to over rev an engine that didn't belong to me (took it out to the track while she was away for work). But then I read that "L" will do the 1-2 shift for you, then pop it into "I" and it will do the 2-3 shift.

Come to think of it, my runs were on a "no prep" night, then when it was dyno'ed it was one of those dyno nights at a local tuner, and they weren't able to get the car to hold in 3rd gear.

Mickey Thompson has a 22" Diameter drag slick for 13" and 15" wheels.

[Mark Yacavone]

M&H better still..