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#1 |
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Mike Walter told me this years ago. Spray running engine down with outboard engine fogging oil. Spray enough in it so it looks like the car is on fire. While spraying have some one kill engine. This will help fight corrosion in the engine when the car is cold and a warm moist weather front comes through.
Drain the block and cooling system and leave open so the last bit will evaporate. Remove plugs and apply a squirt of fogging oil in each cylinder. Spin engine over to help coat cylinder walls. Put number 1 at TDC and back of the rocker arms two to three turns on the valves that are close to max lift. Keep notes as to which valve got backed off and by how much. It will be handy information come spring. Install plugs finger tight and it should be ready for its long winters nap. It may not be the best way but it works for me. |
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#2 |
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I remove the carb, then turn the engine over while spraying fogging oil down each intake runner.
Back off any rocker that does not have play. Drain cooling system and fill with antifreeze. Remove batteries. In the Spring, be sure to tighten rockers first, before turning the engine over. Much easier that way!
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S/ST 51 S/C 53 |
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#3 |
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Any tips for a more moderate climate like Washington State? The car is in an unheated garage undergoing minor updates to electrical and interior paint. It's seldom below freezing and if it goes there it's only for a day or two but it is constantly damp all Winter. I currently fire the car at least once a week with water only in the cooling system. I pull it out for a full warm up when I can. Any additive I should have in it?
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 |
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#4 | |
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Jeff Niceswanger 3740 SS |
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#5 |
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Also, haven't been in the habit of backing off rockers for a few years now. I religiously turn the engine over at least 180 degrees every week or so. Heard many years ago that modern valve springs don't take a "set" like older technology did. And when I check them, even after a winter, there is no noticeable difference in pressures.
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#6 | |
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I have one O2 sensor but it is used for data logging, not engine operation so it would be easy to take out and run the engine
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Alan Mackin Stock 3777/ SS 3377 P/SA & SS/PA Fox Thunderbird I/PS '95 Mustang GT |
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#7 |
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For us the big problem is condensation on a cold car. If its sweating on the outside its sweating on the inside. When the water evaporates it forms rust on the cylinder walls and valve seats.
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#8 |
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Thanks for the input I will get antifreeze in it and I like fogging oil to help with the rust. I know I have seen the intake and block with condensation on them.
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#9 |
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We close the fuel valve (we use one near the regulator) and run the engine. Or just run the engine with the fuel pump shut off.
While running the engine, pour "Marvel Mystery Oil" into the carb to lubricate and protect the internals of the engine while not in use. As soon as your see smoke, kill the engine! We also drain the fuel cell! Our Engine Builder suggests to "fog the engines" with Marvel Mystery Oil after each race! |
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#10 | |
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA Last edited by Ed Wright; 12-23-2018 at 02:39 PM. |
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