Penn vs Valvoline test results..Ed Wright

[Ron Gusack]

Originally Posted by Alan Nyhus

Pull the pan when the engine is still hot/warm and you won't see that. High zinc oils (over 1,000 ppm) will precipitate additives when the oil is cold. -Al

This might be true Alan, but I don't see the same amount in the pan after switching to Brad Penn, which has no moly. If I convince myself that the VR1 has better wear numbers, I'll gladly live with some goop in the pan.

The question that I can't seem to get a decent answer to is why so many racers use multi weight oil instead of straight weight.

[Stick Racing]

May I ask the part number of the Valvoline oil you refer to?
I have used the VV850 in the past but they no longer offer it.
I believe they changed the formulation.

Do you use an additive with the oil?

______________________________________

Andy Stone A/S 1102 SS/C 1112

[Ron Gusack]

The oil I used is straight 30 racing oil. It used to be commonly called VV223 but the Valvoline part number is 822401. Scroll down a little to find Valvoline's conventional oil part numbers, https://www.valvoline.com/our-produc...vr1-racing-oil

I don't use any oil additives.

[1320racer]

don't use either.

Been running Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w-30 in my race engines for nearly 3 decades.

This past season switched to Lucas Synthetic. Have a case of Maxima Synthetic that I will run this season.

[Alan Nyhus]

Originally Posted by Ron Gusack

This might be true Alan, but I don't see the same amount in the pan after switching to Brad Penn, which has no moly. If I convince myself that the VR1 has better wear numbers, I'll gladly live with some goop in the pan.

Finished the 2018 season using Red Line 5-20 synthetic race oil. There was very, very little additive separation when I pulled the pan. What you see in a cold oil pan...full of cold oil...isn't an indicator of what's happening when the oil is hot and flowing.

The oil deal is a bigger issue for Stockers that have to use a flat tappet camshaft combined with high spring pressures and aggressive lobe profiles. For those not running under that set of rule constraints, there are dozens of oils that will work well.

Excessive additive precipitation is something to consider when choosing an oil filter. Those dots can be connected accordingly. -Al

[Myron Piatek]

Originally Posted by Ron Gusack

This might be true Alan, but I don't see the same amount in the pan after switching to Brad Penn, which has no moly. If I convince myself that the VR1 has better wear numbers, I'll gladly live with some goop in the pan.

The question that I can't seem to get a decent answer to is why so many racers use multi weight oil instead of straight weight.

It's my understanding that multi-viscosity oils get circulated faster on start-up when it's cold, which helps protect sooner and reduce wear. I also read some time ago that multi-viscosity oils make more HP, but I don't recall why. It might be that drag engine oil don't usually reach "normal" operating temperatures, if I understand viscosity numbers correctly. (i.e.: 10w-30 - 10w=cold, 30=hot.

Valvoline says that straight weight oils are usually recommended for smaller and older engines.

5th question down:

https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/f...-viscosity-faq

[Ron Gusack]

Originally Posted by Myron Piatek

It's my understanding that multi-viscosity oils get circulated faster on start-up when it's cold, which helps protect sooner and reduce wear. I also read some time ago that multi-viscosity oils make more HP, but I don't recall why. It might be that drag engine oil don't usually reach "normal" operating temperatures, if I understand viscosity numbers correctly. (i.e.: 10w-30 - 10w=cold, 30=hot.

Valvoline says that straight weight oils are usually recommended for smaller and older engines.

5th question down:

https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/f...-viscosity-faq

I'll do one more round with straight 30 and then switch to 10-30 to see if my test results move any.

[Adger Smith]

This is a little off topic... but still oil related...
I've been hearing of some guys finding power on the dyno using some of the new oils designed for older Hi mileage engines. They say it is because the rings seal better. Anyone have any experience with that?