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#1 |
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All you have to do is kinda spread out the rear quarters. cut or roll the wheel well lip so it folds back to the quarter. then you may have to kinda expand the quarter panel out "push it out from the frame" and make it look stock. you really don't even need to do any body work but just swell them out a little. I have always ran 9X30 on a 10" wheel. no one will ever notice...
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1967 Fairlane A/Stick - 1994 Mustang GT. 1989 Oldsmobile, R/SA - 2016 Z06 Weekend Street Car. |
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#2 |
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Hakkart is 8" in a radial
![]() Kimball is 8" in a bias ![]() Pond is 10" in a bias ![]() Whitney is 10" in a bias ![]()
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Bob Smith |
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#3 |
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Good luck with your project. I for one, like the early iron. You can buy driveline parts today, that will live, and I hope NHRA will help with HP and make you competitive.
Mike A114 |
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#4 |
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Thank you, that is some of the info I was looking for. Those with the 10 inch wheels look very tight, will have to look into that before I start that. I have the wheels to do either, so that is no issue, just the whether I want to cut the car that much or not. The 10 inch wheels also look to have a 4.5 to 5 inch backspacing too, is that correct?
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#5 |
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There are wheel fitment tools available for under $100 if you play around it will get you in the ballpark. You may need custom offset wheels. This does not rule out body modifications mentioned above though.
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Frank Ferrucci I/SA 1271 "Be Thankful for the Gifts You are Given" |
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#6 |
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definitely not ruling out mods, but would like to keep them to a minimum as this car has a lot of sentimental value to me. It was and will remain a race car though, I just want to do as much pre-planning as I can to minimize irresversible mods. Thank you all for your help..
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#7 |
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One thing you might also what to do is make longer bump stops so the car/ fenders can't hit the slicks on sharp turns off the track on to the return road or bumps in the shut down or pits .
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#8 | |
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Bob Smith |
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