68 SS Chevelle stocker questions - Page 3

Chipper Chapman · 11-26-2019, 10:00 AM

My mistake, it is listed there. However 325hp would likely be the better option

J&S Racing · 11-26-2019, 11:34 AM

Build thread sure could use some fresh action.

Greg Reimer 7376 · 11-26-2019, 11:24 PM

Maybe I should have been more concise. I put 6" square plates on the floor in the appropriate locations for the roll bars, drilled through both plates and the floor, and two more 1/2"holes through both plates, the floor, and the frame. I trimmed the main hoop and got it situated exactly the place I wanted it, tack welded the hoop to the upper plate, and removed it. My welder laid a real nice bead attaching the hoop to the upper plate, then I located the rear plates on the floor area where the rear of the back seat lower section was. I then took the two diagonal rear supports and located them between the upper hoop and the rear floor plates. I tack welded them in place, removed the whole assembly and made the bar that went across the car where the shoulder harness attached, then tack welded that in place. My welder tig welded the whole bar assembly together, this being four points of the five point bar, then I reinstalled it in the car. The main hoop lower plates were bolted up with 3/8" grade 8 bolts and lock nuts, then the 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts went in, and I made two spacers to fit between the bottom of the lower plate and the top of the frame. Tightening the bolts down finished that part of the job. I drilled four 3/8" holes through each plate on the floor where the rear braces went, then made two more plates to double plate the rear attachment points. All attachment plates must be reinforced top and bottom of the stock floor, and then bolted to the frame. The rule book says that roll bars must be attached to the frame.It doesn't say that it has to be welded. Roll bars can be bolted in, roll cages have to be welded. That's from General Regulations chapter 4.
As for the diagonal brace to the left of the driver, I took a plate, bent it to fit, drilled attachment holes through the plate, the floor, and the frame and bolted it in place.The upper mount for the roll bar tubing was fitted in the right place and at the right angle to line up with the floor mounting point, and I tack welded that in place as well. My welder then finish welded the whole thing solidly, then I bolted the whole five point bar in place. Cleaning and painting the bar black and finish bolting it in place and installing the padding and the shoulder harnesses finished that all up. Be sure you panel up and carpet your rear seat and package tray area before any final installation of your bar. The stock bench seat fits pretty well, but it has to go in through the passenger side door.
At a later time, I tabbed up an upper receiver with a quick release pin and a lower hinge assembly and converted it to a swing out bar. It strongly resembles the drawings in the rule book General Regulations section, and it has never caused any hassles going through tech. No large holes were cut through the floor, in fact, this bar could be removed, the holes could be welded up and ground down, the rear seat could go back in, and this car could be returned to OEM. It probably never will, but it could be. I feel the bar prevents diagonal twist of the body shell, I'm sure a Nova would benefit by this whole thing more than the Chevelle because of the partial frame.
Best wishes with the success of your project. It's neat to see these cars still being built.

Rory Christianson · 11-28-2019, 09:37 AM

Nice reply Greg
I was kind of figuring in my head that you did something like that because I had seen something similar years ago and contemplated it on another car build I was doing a long time ago.
Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

Greg Reimer 7376 · 11-28-2019, 10:37 AM

In retrospect, it would have been easier for me if I would have taken the drivers door off. The front end sheet metal on this car all had to be replaced anyway, the door hinge bolts were all exposed and easily accessible. If I did another car, that is what I would have done.A unit body car, such as a earlier Nova, a Mustang, a Fairlane,a Road Runner, etc. still has to be double plated, one plate above the floor backed up by one below the floor, that seems to be legal, but I've never built a Camaro or a 68 on up Nova. The subframe connectors would have to be welded in some way, and that would provide a secure enough mounting point for the roll bar, but the best way to verify an installation is to see and look at another car that is already done. Having the door off would facilitate a lot easier installation of the bar assembly. Another woulda, coulda,shoulda that we all learn as we go along. Just make sure it's all legal. Rule book in one hand, cut off saw and welding rig in the other. About two years after my Chevelle was done, we went to Irwindale for a test and tune, and the tech guy didn't think my installation was right. He had his rulebook in hand, I called his attention to General Regulations 4:10-Roll bars can be bolted in, and 4:11- Roll cages must be welded to frame. I explained that I had raced at Bakersfield, Fontana, Vegas, and the Winternationals at Pomona and the tech guys never disputed anything. He backed down and let us in without any further argument. Best wishes with your projects!

11-26-2019, 10:00 AM	#21
Chipper Chapman Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Belmont N.S. Canada Posts: 473 Likes: 246 Liked 166 Times in 71 Posts	Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions My mistake, it is listed there. However 325hp would likely be the better option __________________ Chris Chapman 1969 Chevelle NHRA F-G/SA 1090

11-26-2019, 11:34 AM	#22
J&S Racing Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 283 Likes: 102 Liked 319 Times in 82 Posts	Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions Build thread sure could use some fresh action.

11-26-2019, 11:24 PM	#23
Greg Reimer 7376 VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Glendora,Calif. Posts: 1,135 Likes: 172 Liked 704 Times in 218 Posts	Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions Maybe I should have been more concise. I put 6" square plates on the floor in the appropriate locations for the roll bars, drilled through both plates and the floor, and two more 1/2"holes through both plates, the floor, and the frame. I trimmed the main hoop and got it situated exactly the place I wanted it, tack welded the hoop to the upper plate, and removed it. My welder laid a real nice bead attaching the hoop to the upper plate, then I located the rear plates on the floor area where the rear of the back seat lower section was. I then took the two diagonal rear supports and located them between the upper hoop and the rear floor plates. I tack welded them in place, removed the whole assembly and made the bar that went across the car where the shoulder harness attached, then tack welded that in place. My welder tig welded the whole bar assembly together, this being four points of the five point bar, then I reinstalled it in the car. The main hoop lower plates were bolted up with 3/8" grade 8 bolts and lock nuts, then the 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts went in, and I made two spacers to fit between the bottom of the lower plate and the top of the frame. Tightening the bolts down finished that part of the job. I drilled four 3/8" holes through each plate on the floor where the rear braces went, then made two more plates to double plate the rear attachment points. All attachment plates must be reinforced top and bottom of the stock floor, and then bolted to the frame. The rule book says that roll bars must be attached to the frame.It doesn't say that it has to be welded. Roll bars can be bolted in, roll cages have to be welded. That's from General Regulations chapter 4. As for the diagonal brace to the left of the driver, I took a plate, bent it to fit, drilled attachment holes through the plate, the floor, and the frame and bolted it in place.The upper mount for the roll bar tubing was fitted in the right place and at the right angle to line up with the floor mounting point, and I tack welded that in place as well. My welder then finish welded the whole thing solidly, then I bolted the whole five point bar in place. Cleaning and painting the bar black and finish bolting it in place and installing the padding and the shoulder harnesses finished that all up. Be sure you panel up and carpet your rear seat and package tray area before any final installation of your bar. The stock bench seat fits pretty well, but it has to go in through the passenger side door. At a later time, I tabbed up an upper receiver with a quick release pin and a lower hinge assembly and converted it to a swing out bar. It strongly resembles the drawings in the rule book General Regulations section, and it has never caused any hassles going through tech. No large holes were cut through the floor, in fact, this bar could be removed, the holes could be welded up and ground down, the rear seat could go back in, and this car could be returned to OEM. It probably never will, but it could be. I feel the bar prevents diagonal twist of the body shell, I'm sure a Nova would benefit by this whole thing more than the Chevelle because of the partial frame. Best wishes with the success of your project. It's neat to see these cars still being built.

11-28-2019, 09:37 AM	#24
Rory Christianson Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: canada Posts: 128 Likes: 3 Liked 9 Times in 6 Posts	Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions Nice reply Greg I was kind of figuring in my head that you did something like that because I had seen something similar years ago and contemplated it on another car build I was doing a long time ago. Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

11-28-2019, 10:37 AM	#25
Greg Reimer 7376 VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Glendora,Calif. Posts: 1,135 Likes: 172 Liked 704 Times in 218 Posts	Re: 68 SS Chevelle stocker questions In retrospect, it would have been easier for me if I would have taken the drivers door off. The front end sheet metal on this car all had to be replaced anyway, the door hinge bolts were all exposed and easily accessible. If I did another car, that is what I would have done.A unit body car, such as a earlier Nova, a Mustang, a Fairlane,a Road Runner, etc. still has to be double plated, one plate above the floor backed up by one below the floor, that seems to be legal, but I've never built a Camaro or a 68 on up Nova. The subframe connectors would have to be welded in some way, and that would provide a secure enough mounting point for the roll bar, but the best way to verify an installation is to see and look at another car that is already done. Having the door off would facilitate a lot easier installation of the bar assembly. Another woulda, coulda,shoulda that we all learn as we go along. Just make sure it's all legal. Rule book in one hand, cut off saw and welding rig in the other. About two years after my Chevelle was done, we went to Irwindale for a test and tune, and the tech guy didn't think my installation was right. He had his rulebook in hand, I called his attention to General Regulations 4:10-Roll bars can be bolted in, and 4:11- Roll cages must be welded to frame. I explained that I had raced at Bakersfield, Fontana, Vegas, and the Winternationals at Pomona and the tech guys never disputed anything. He backed down and let us in without any further argument. Best wishes with your projects!