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#1 |
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4 suggestions
1-Edelbrock #2733 plug ---about $12 2-Mondello #HR-351 insert---about $25 3- fill the cavity with liquid aluminum or maybe try JB weld 4- fabricate an aluminum plate to fit between the gasket and the cylinder head might have to resurface the manifold to compensate for the space FED 387 |
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#2 | |
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#3 |
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I don't know that you can't block the intake, if they let you fill the head all the way down to the port.
You could take a chunk of 1/4 " aluminum or steel and make a plug with tapered sides, and bang it in there. No bubble packs here, unless we have to.
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#4 |
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2020 Rule book: Stock Cars
Cylinder Heads “Heat riser passage may be blocked from intake manifold side of cylinder head. Blocking passage down in the valve pocket prohibited.” My interpretation: don’t block anywhere down into the head, but that’s just me. I would hate to get busted for plugging the head when a thin piece of stainless will be sufficient. Kelly |
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#5 | |
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#6 |
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hi, I found .015 stainless sheet works excellent. used same ones for last 10 years, has never burned out or blew a hole through it. mine are 2" by 2 1/2 "just food for thought.
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#7 |
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On my 390/427/428 FE Fords, I have always blocked the exhaust crossover opening in the intake gaskets with a piece of an old butter knife, trimmed to fit inside the slot in the gasket. I have tried the gaskets with the unopened crossover holes, but they always burnt thru in short order. I always found it interesting that NHRA will not allow you to fill the head passage down into the bowl, yet the approved Edelbrock heads have no provisions for the crossover passages at all, but thats OK.
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#8 | |
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"No bubble packs here" I could of sworn that was you standing in the window waiting for the UPS truck intently LOL |
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#9 |
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On applications that can use sheetmetal to block the crossover, I've had good luck with aluminum (thicker than cans) if glued & coated on the inside with a good hi-temp silicone to help insulate it.
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