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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Pierce NE
Posts: 936
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I would recommend copper nickel brake line, bends easy flares great and does not rust. Just got done with my car and it turned out nice. Tom
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Tom Meyer 5240 SS Stock ??? |
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#3 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Miles From Nowhere
Posts: 7,818
Likes: 2,909
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A K-D will work. You have to squeeze it in a vise as close as you can to where the threaded clamp goes on .
If you let it slip, it takes out the serrations in the bar.
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"We are lucky we don't get as much Government as we pay for." Will Rogers |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Fulton County, PA
Posts: 615
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The auto parts store tools are awful. That style of tool is okay, IF you get a quality one.
I have that big Mastercool set. It does a great job. Like any tool, you have to use it a few times to get comfortable with it. It does a lot of different types of flares - bubble, push loc, A/C. Probably overkill if you are just doing straight flares, or inverted flares. They do smaller sets with the hydraulic tool and just the adapters you'll likely need. I have had guys tell me the Eastwood tool works great, never used one so I can't say. If you are doing AN type fittings, you'll need to get the 37 degree tooling to do it right as opposed to cheating it with the 45 degree stuff. I like to use the "Bundyflex" zinc plated steel tubing. Comes in 25' rolls. It's harder than the CuNi stuff, will hold it's shape better and should be bent with tools. The green coated tubing is miserable to flare and also too soft. |
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#5 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 487
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is 37 degree with just plain steel lines safe?
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Fulton County, PA
Posts: 615
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37 degree inverted double flare is used with regular steel or stainless tube with AN fittings and tube/sleeve connections.
45 degree is the common automotive SAE inverted hardware. AN stuff will be more money, but is worth it IMO. |
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#7 | |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 487
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i was not aware that stainless could take a double flair |
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#8 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: from Vancouver BC Canada, now in Nova Scotia
Posts: 1,311
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I recently made up all new brake and fuel lines with the Ni-Copp tubing , which works great, and flares nicely. I have also struggled in the past, even with my Snap On double flaring tool, trying to get a nice, uniform double flare. A couple of years ago, I bought an inline flaring tool, from my local NAPA store, and it works so much better than the typical double flare tool that has a bar with multiple holes for different size tubing. My inline flaring tool is only for 3/16" tubing, but it does them very well, and as a bonus, is much more compact, so very handy for making flares while under the car, or in areas with limited room to work.
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NHRA 6390 STK M/S 85 Mustang |
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#9 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
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you must have a talent i do not have, i tried the triton on car and could not get an acceptable result
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#10 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Atco, NJ
Posts: 32
Likes: 19
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I don't post much, but I love Ni-cop.
It's hard to make pretty for a show car. It's to soft to make clean bends in my opinion. I won't use anything else for a daily driver or anything that would be off-road or see salt/brine. The brine seems to really eat any GM brake line. Especially, over the fuel tank. I buy it in rolls. Made a jig to straighten it out. Works okayish, but still not pretty. It's to soft to make clean bends. It's really easy to bend by hand, so easy to put in factory clamps if that applies towards your application. I use an old school Rigid flaring tool. If I'm correct, BMW was first to use it many years ago. I could be wrong though. |
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