Advice on brake lines

[Rory McNeil]

I recently made up all new brake and fuel lines with the Ni-Copp tubing , which works great, and flares nicely. I have also struggled in the past, even with my Snap On double flaring tool, trying to get a nice, uniform double flare. A couple of years ago, I bought an inline flaring tool, from my local NAPA store, and it works so much better than the typical double flare tool that has a bar with multiple holes for different size tubing. My inline flaring tool is only for 3/16" tubing, but it does them very well, and as a bonus, is much more compact, so very handy for making flares while under the car, or in areas with limited room to work.

[David Lee]

you must have a talent i do not have, i tried the triton on car and could not get an acceptable result

[M120]

I don't post much, but I love Ni-cop.

It's hard to make pretty for a show car. It's to soft to make clean bends in my opinion.

I won't use anything else for a daily driver or anything that would be off-road or see salt/brine. The brine seems to really eat any GM brake line. Especially, over the fuel tank.

I buy it in rolls. Made a jig to straighten it out. Works okayish, but still not pretty. It's to soft to make clean bends. It's really easy to bend by hand, so easy to put in factory clamps if that applies towards your application.
I use an old school Rigid flaring tool.

If I'm correct, BMW was first to use it many years ago. I could be wrong though.

[CMcAllister]

Originally Posted by David Lee

is 37 degree with just plain steel lines safe?

37 degree inverted double flare is used with regular steel or stainless tube with AN fittings and tube/sleeve connections.

45 degree is the common automotive SAE inverted hardware.

AN stuff will be more money, but is worth it IMO.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

37 degree inverted double flare is used with regular steel or stainless tube with AN fittings and tube/sleeve connections.

45 degree is the common automotive SAE inverted hardware.

AN stuff will be more money, but is worth it IMO.

i was not aware that stainless could take a double flair

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Tom Meyer

I would recommend copper nickel brake line, bends easy flares great and does not rust. Just got done with my car and it turned out nice. Tom

I was under the impression NiCor line was not allowed or at least frowned on because it has a low melting point and kinkes easier than steel. I have a coil of it on the wall and am redoing my lines too.

[CMcAllister]

Originally Posted by David Lee

i was not aware that stainless could take a double flair

I've done some nitrous plumbing in SS. It can be double flared if it is annealed. Requires a good flaring tool. Some people feel it doesn't need to be double flared for brake lines, although I don't agree. Probably overkill for most unless you want to polish it for a show car look.

I haven't used it in a long time. I prefer the old style "Bundyflex" zinc coated steel. Harder than the CuNi and green coated stuff. But not so much so that it is miserable to work.

If appearances matter, it can be cleaned up with some fine scotch brite and WD40 to a nice satin look.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

I've done some nitrous plumbing in SS. It can be double flared if it is annealed. Requires a good flaring tool. Some people feel it doesn't need to be double flared for brake lines, although I don't agree. Probably overkill for most unless you want to polish it for a show car look.

I haven't used it in a long time. I prefer the old style "Bundyflex" zinc coated steel. Harder than the CuNi and green coated stuff. But not so much so that it is miserable to work.

If appearances matter, it can be cleaned up with some fine scotch brite and WD40 to a nice satin look.

i am using the bundyflex.

[Paul Precht]

Brake lines are a pleasure with this.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by Paul Precht

Brake lines are a pleasure with this.

have one on its way