power windows?

greg fulk · 10-21-2008, 01:53 AM

OK g-body guys whats going on with the power windows? The things are real slow both up & down. I talked to Bob Downing & their Cutlass acts the same. He was thinking it may be in the gound? Any ideas?

Moparteacher · 10-21-2008, 02:06 AM

How about performing a voltage drop between the battery positive and the window motor, and then a voltage drop between the battery negative and the window motor? Anything above .5V is too much. Then you'll want to narrow that test. I would perform a voltage drop across the switch, at the switch, for both negative and positive.

All the windows share a common power supply through the master switch and a common ground supply through the master switch.

A voltage drop is performed with a volt-meter hook-up power-to-power (before the load) with current flowing, and ground-to-ground (after the load) with current flowing.

Need detailed instruction or help? Let me know.
gary.weaver@csn.edu
College of Southern Nevada

greg fulk · 10-21-2008, 02:12 AM

Thanks...never even thought of doing that...2 years of collage Ind. maint. (some almost 20 years ago) & that never even crossed my mind. A multi meter is a wonderfull thing

Moparteacher · 10-21-2008, 04:07 AM

Ya...I knew you knew it.

Bruce Witherspoon · 10-21-2008, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greg fulk

Thanks...never even thought of doing that...2 years of collage Ind. maint. (some almost 20 years ago) & that never even crossed my mind. A multi meter is a wonderfull thing

Greg, I think those windows are the old belt drives. I just removed the last one from the Corvette. It worked fine, just slower than.... If it is a belt drive; I'm not sure what if anything you can do to speed them up.

Dragsinger · 10-21-2008, 07:44 AM

The above mentioned test are good and necessary to verify all wiring is solid. However, in most cases of 1980's General Motors cars, the motor is at fault. Over time, the factory lube dries up causing excessive drag on bushings and gears. Then, because of the added resistance, the brush holders overheat and loose tension. Those motors are a cheap, weak design with a short service life.

If you what to invest the time, It is usually successful to service those motors. Once removed from the regulator, drill out rivets holding the motor halves together. Then separate the case, clean and re-lube, clean brush holder and contacts.

However, they can be bought reman. for about $40.00

bobby · 10-21-2008, 09:40 AM

I have the same problem with my 94 Firebird. The drivers side would go up and down slowly until it just quit working, window down of course. Replaced it with a rebuilt one from the local outo parts store, with a life time warranty, and it works fine now. the passenger side is slow also, waiting for it to give up. I have never seen a drive thru on the passenger side, so I try not to use it to much.

Dragsinger · 10-21-2008, 12:05 PM

Bobby,

the reason those motors "stall out" is because they have an internal circuit breaker. That is why you can wait a few minutes and gradually get the window up.

bobby · 10-22-2008, 01:48 PM

I wish. I waited a couple of hours while I was cleaning the garage b/c of the water falling out of the sky, LOL. FEMA won't blue tarp a car.

10-21-2008, 01:53 AM	#1
greg fulk VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: jackson Posts: 1,165 Likes: 0 Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts	power windows? OK g-body guys whats going on with the power windows? The things are real slow both up & down. I talked to Bob Downing & their Cutlass acts the same. He was thinking it may be in the gound? Any ideas? __________________ Greg Fulk 308 308X P/SA "ALL AMERICAN"

10-21-2008, 02:06 AM	#2
Moparteacher Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Posts: 49 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: power windows? How about performing a voltage drop between the battery positive and the window motor, and then a voltage drop between the battery negative and the window motor? Anything above .5V is too much. Then you'll want to narrow that test. I would perform a voltage drop across the switch, at the switch, for both negative and positive. All the windows share a common power supply through the master switch and a common ground supply through the master switch. A voltage drop is performed with a volt-meter hook-up power-to-power (before the load) with current flowing, and ground-to-ground (after the load) with current flowing. Need detailed instruction or help? Let me know. gary.weaver@csn.edu College of Southern Nevada __________________ Gary Weaver Moparteacher@yahoo.com

10-21-2008, 02:12 AM	#3
greg fulk VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: jackson Posts: 1,165 Likes: 0 Liked 5 Times in 3 Posts	Re: power windows? Thanks...never even thought of doing that...2 years of collage Ind. maint. (some almost 20 years ago) & that never even crossed my mind. A multi meter is a wonderfull thing __________________ Greg Fulk 308 308X P/SA "ALL AMERICAN"

10-21-2008, 04:07 AM	#4
Moparteacher Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Boise Posts: 49 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: power windows? Ya...I knew you knew it. __________________ Gary Weaver Moparteacher@yahoo.com

10-21-2008, 07:44 AM	#6
Dragsinger VIP Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Liberty City [East Texas] Posts: 1,760 Likes: 5 Liked 99 Times in 60 Posts	Re: power windows? The above mentioned test are good and necessary to verify all wiring is solid. However, in most cases of 1980's General Motors cars, the motor is at fault. Over time, the factory lube dries up causing excessive drag on bushings and gears. Then, because of the added resistance, the brush holders overheat and loose tension. Those motors are a cheap, weak design with a short service life. If you what to invest the time, It is usually successful to service those motors. Once removed from the regulator, drill out rivets holding the motor halves together. Then separate the case, clean and re-lube, clean brush holder and contacts. However, they can be bought reman. for about $40.00 __________________ Larry Woodfin 471W

10-21-2008, 09:40 AM	#7
bobby Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: League City, Texas Posts: 243 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: power windows? I have the same problem with my 94 Firebird. The drivers side would go up and down slowly until it just quit working, window down of course. Replaced it with a rebuilt one from the local outo parts store, with a life time warranty, and it works fine now. the passenger side is slow also, waiting for it to give up. I have never seen a drive thru on the passenger side, so I try not to use it to much.

10-21-2008, 12:05 PM	#8
Dragsinger VIP Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Liberty City [East Texas] Posts: 1,760 Likes: 5 Liked 99 Times in 60 Posts	Re: power windows? Bobby, the reason those motors "stall out" is because they have an internal circuit breaker. That is why you can wait a few minutes and gradually get the window up. __________________ Larry Woodfin 471W

10-22-2008, 01:48 PM	#9
bobby Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: League City, Texas Posts: 243 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: power windows? I wish. I waited a couple of hours while I was cleaning the garage b/c of the water falling out of the sky, LOL. FEMA won't blue tarp a car.