FWD Mopar Stocker

[drag55]

I purchased a 1988 Dodge Shadow and intend on running it in stock. Any suggestions or advise would be appreciated. The car is a 2.2 turbo automatic. Thanks Ron

[Chris "drooze" Wertman]

Sweet......Have fun building it is the only thing Im qualified to speak to at this moment.....

Take what is said here negative with a grain of salt.

Take what is positive and run with it.

Know that there is so many resources here that will PM you if you pose and ask the right question and they know you are for real. Many of these people dont post in the open forum often.

Follow your heart and the rest be dammed.

Cheers

Chris

If you wanna sell it I might be in the market Looking for a VERY Nice Dodge Turbo car.....like as in near new.

Originally Posted by drag55

I purchased a 1988 Dodge Shadow and intend on running it in stock. Any suggestions or advise would be appreciated. The car is a 2.2 turbo automatic. Thanks Ron

[larry dowty]

RON make art leong your new best friend he can help you.

[Jeff Lee]

Originally Posted by drooze

Sweet......Have fun building it is the only thing Im qualified to speak to at this moment.....

Take what is said here negative with a grain of salt.

Take what is positive and run with it.

Know that there is so many resources here that will PM you if you pose and ask the right question and they know you are for real. Many of these people dont post in the open forum often.

Follow your heart and the rest be dammed.

Cheers

Chris

If you wanna sell it I might be in the market Looking for a VERY Nice Dodge Turbo car.....like as in near new.

I used to race an B/FS - AF/S '87 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z. That's the 2.2L Turbo II with Getrag 5-speed. I sold it back in 1996 I think. It's pretty much been sitting in the guys climate controlled garage (here in AZ) every since. It was raced only a few times by the current owner and the guy I sold it to. And when I sold it it was a fresh engine. The car looks like a new Shelby Z. White with red velour interior, all factory original. I set the B & C records at 14.13 in B/FS and 13.26 in AF/S which wasn't bettered for about 10 years. I think it takes $7500 to buy the car. If your serious, let me know (as I've got to do some tracking and confirming he still has it; but I'm sure he does).
Car was a nice street car at the same time, handled really nice. No sun-roof, power seat, A/C and I got 25 MPG on the way home from setting the A record.

[Oclk Dlux]

Ron,

I have a '85 LeBaron I used to run in BF/S. I had to hold off racing in Stock for a few years, but I'm in the process of getting it ready to race in Stock again. I'm currently pushing high 13 seconds with the car at an 'altitude' track, so here's the best advice I can offer.

Even though I'm running the "log" style intake, I've noticed the hot air turbos seem to require a LOT more fuel than it's intercooled counterparts. An adjustable 1:1 fuel pressure regulator and 804 injectors is good for 17 pounds of boost (give or take a few depending on altitude or humidity), but for more boost, consider a rising rate regulator that will provide better that a 1:1 boost/fuel ratio. Bell Engineering (BEGi) in Texas sells good ones for $230. If you run Sunoco Standard (110 octane), the odds are much greater that engine will detonate from running lean than it will lack of octane. Fuel, fuel, and more fuel. And read the plugs :^)

Good luck,
Rich

[drag55]

Thanks for the info and keep it coming. Thanks Ron

[Joe Toller]

Get a good air/fuel ratio gauge. I started on this quest last year, got a little derailed, but almost have an 87 Lancer ready.

[Michael Beard]

FWIW... While I never played with any Turbo combinations, one of the Daytona guys had told me that he had problems with inconsistency... and then he took the "stocker" cam out and put the bone stock cam profile back in the car and he said it started repeating, deadly! He surmised that the long duration/overlap may have been sending a bad 'signal' to the turbo.

I have a DF/S '85 Turismo 2.2L (low compression combo, 2bbl carb) that I just got back out last fall after it sat dormant for years on the "reconstruction" list. Currently heavy for DF/S, and only runs a few tenths under, but ran -1.04 under the IHRA FF/SA index in testing, also heavy for the class. I'm usually racing my Volare, so the Turismo is for sale, but in the meantime, I may do some more tinkering with it. Tons of fun to drive, and it's actually a competitive car in its current state! (consistent, & I found a spot on the tree)

Good luck with your project!

[drag55]

Thanks for the input. Ron

[Oclk Dlux]

One more thing, the A413's differential is the weakest link in the entire drivetrain. If the weight difference between both front left & right tires is more than 100 pounds (may vary, but I base this on my experience), only one tire will spin during a burnout. The differential crossshaft will then gaul up and break the retaining pin. When this happens, the shaft slips out of the differential and collides into either the cover or the housing. Big mess either way. You have several options:

1. Mopar retaining pin clips. Paul Smith shows the part number and how to install. I currently use these along with having the front end weight balanced. So far so good, but I know it's a matter of time before the big "boom". http://www.turbovan.net/Trans3.html

2. Phantom Grip. Never used it, but I've heard pros & cons. Paul Smith's webpage shows it also. If the side gears aren't machined perfectly flat, it will most likely not work.

3. Buy either an OBX or Quaife LSD. These are designed for manual transmissions, but can be made to work with an A413 with a ring gear spacer & cover/housing modifications. Art Leong has excellent details on how to achieve that.

4. The Cadillac option, buy a A413 LSD from Gary Peloquin. A bit spendy, but no mods needed as its a direct bolt in! http://www.peloquins.com/products_A413.html

Good luck.
Rich