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#1 |
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I had this problem last season. Had the motor redone. Found a problem with the rear end(it was binding up) got that fixed. Still same deal. Let the clutch out at 8600 lugs the motor down bad. On the graph it pulls it down to 3000. Then if you stay with it and shift the remaining gears at 8000 its ok. When I came up the return road in 2nd I got on it pretty hard and shifted it. It runs real strong. Im open to anything. Thanks.
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Ed Carpenter 2005 Chevy Cobalt A/SM Race Engine Development |
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#2 | |
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX |
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#3 |
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4gc carb? Check for leaking brass floats and float setting. Ron.
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#4 |
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Some ignitions like a msd digital programmable have provisions to adjust timing on the launch. Just taking a swing, but if for some reason your timing was retarding a ton on the launch, maybe that would be an issue. It would not show up anywhere else.
Ed, are you running the 283 now? 4 jets have big float bowls. I would be shocked if you ran low on fuel, but what if they were set too high and dumping fuel down the intake when you launched?
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James Schaechter 3163 STK |
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#5 |
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do you have a o2 reading ????,, whats the first gear ratio?? gmonde
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#6 |
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It would help to open secondarys on the line 8600 is just where it starts to sound good,LOL
I think you have some good ideals posted, I know it's a 4GC but I have had similiar quadrajet problem,needle and seat will slightly leak won't run over just idles about 100-200 rpm slower and bogs on launch,took me a little bit to find the first time,on Q-jet I have to take off top of carb and hold float pivot pin down and turn on fuel pump it will take 1-2 minutes for fuel to creep up it leaks so slightly,maybe able to try on 4GC. new needle and seat seals,but now I check them before putting top on. Mike Taylor 3601 |
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#7 |
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What is the fuel pressure doing when this happens?
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Nelson Kowal Stock 345 |
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I think anytime we have to run a carb such as a 4GC and Autolites, and whatever else, when having problems like this it's probably going to save a few grey hairs to bolt a tried & true Holley double pumper of the same CFM rating on it just to see what happens. If it picks up considerably, then you know where to look. If not, then you know your required carb is good and you ned to look somewhere else.
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Jeff Lee 7494 D/S '70 AMX |
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#9 |
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One item that I have done to get the low end torque up when you let out the clutch. I don't run a spacer under the carb any more. Worked on a issue of pulling the motor down after the clutch release, and at the time, I had a one inch spacer, put a two inch spacer on it, and it was worse. Tried a half inch spacer and it got better, then finally ran no spacer. I changed the jetting a little when the spacer changes took place. One thing I noticed was, I had to jet it down when I had no spacer. Racers wll testify, that it will make more power with the spacer, but it is a drive ability issue. A friend of mine that racers super stock with a clutch was having a problem with bogging when leaving the line. Had a two inch spacer. I told him what I did. He didn't believe me. But he tried it. And now he doesn't run a spacer. If you had a convertor it would be a different issue.
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Got a couple of questions, what kind of clutch do you have and how much does the complete assembly weigh? Flywheel, pressure plate, and disc. And how big off a tire do you run? 8600 is extreme to me on the launch, but for a super stocker it might be the norm. I believe that most stick cars like to spin the tire a little on the launch. I sure stick guys can chime in and say if there cars spin a half turn or so on the line. I am a dead hook guy on the starting line, and if my cars spins the tire a little it doesn't pull the motor down as far and the car will run fast. But I don't run super stock or stock. But I do race a clutch car. You might need a little bit more total weight on you clutch assembly, to get the tire moving.
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