Ford vs Chevy Build-up

[SSGT Mustang]

Okay, here's the C4 to C5 comparison.

The tops of the valve bodies appear to be the same. The the outside of pumps look the same but have different part numbers (the C5 pumps are supposed to have modifications that most builders perform on C4 pumps). C5 on the right.



The bottoms of the valve bodies are different. The inner-sides of pumps are the same (same part numbers too). C5 on the right.



Housing are almost identical with the exception of better fluid channels in the C5 (on left) and the fine thread band adjusters. I guess I forgot to pull the sprag and shifter linkage when I put the C5 in storage.



The C4 valve bodies fit the C5 case, and vice versa. C4 is the better valve body.



Notice the subtle differences in the valve body passage.



Even the shaft housings are identical.



Drums, gears, etc all look the same.



Hope this is helpful to you or someone else.

[Steve Stickel]

SS/GT ,
Thanks for taking the time to post those C4/C5 trans photos and the detailed differences ...
Proof that a photo is worth a thousand words after all.

[HandOverFist]

Here you go Steve -

The C5 was used between 1982 and 1986 at which time it was replaced by the AOD. Casting numbers are E2, E3, E4, E5, and E6 designating the year of manufacture.
Vehicles:

• 1986 Ford Aerostar
• 1983–1986 Ford Ranger
• 1983–1985 Ford Bronco II
• 1983–1986 Ford LTD
• 1982–1986 Ford Thunderbird
• 1982–1986 Mercury Capri
• 1982–1986 Mercury Cougar
• 1983–1986 Mercury Marquis
• 1983 Mercury Zephyr

Now, back to those flexplates...whats the difference and which do I need?

[SSGT Mustang]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

I need to purchase a flexplate and have noticed two different configurations for a C4...one with a single step and the other with a dual step. What/why the difference and which do I need?

What brand did you notice a difference?

Depending on the bell housing you use, you need either a 157 tooth flex plate (typically 302) or the 164 tooth (typically 351). You probably need a 157 tooth flywheel, but I would check with dynamic to be sure.

I'll assume that you internally balanced the engine, otherwise you would need to consider two choices of imbalance, 28 oz. or 50 oz. I'm surprised that when you had the engine balanced, the machinist didn't ask for a flex plate.

Regardless, get a decent 157 tooth flex plate (again, depending on bell housing used) and just go with it. You can probably get one from whoever you choose to make your converter.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by SSGT Mustang

What brand did you notice a difference?

Not brand specific as far as I can tell.

Depending on the bell housing you use, you need either a 157 tooth flex plate (typically 302) or the 164 tooth (typically 351). You probably need a 157 tooth flywheel, but I would check with dynamic to be sure.

Plans have always been on using the 157T bellhousing. I could go either way since they bolt-on/interchange. Matter of fact is the Dynamic will be coming without a bellhousing...I had one donated by a fellow forum member. Btw, the AOD behind the 302 is 164T.

I'll assume that you internally balanced the engine, otherwise you would need to consider two choices of imbalance, 28 oz. or 50 oz. I'm surprised that when you had the engine balanced, the machinist didn't ask for a flex plate.

This one is 50 oz. I had the balancer for the machine shop... they simply used a 50 oz flexplate they had in house for balancing.

Regardless, get a decent 157 tooth flex plate (again, depending on bell housing used) and just go with it. You can probably get one from whoever you choose to make your converter.

The difference I'm speaking of is the double center flange vs a single...steps so to speak.

I'll try to post some images of the different plates shortly.





You can easily see the difference between the two. I just don't want to blindly buy one and end up with a useless flexplate lying around the garage...I have enough clutter as it is lol.

[Rory McNeil]

Since the OD of a 157 tooth flexplate is about 1" smaller than a 164 tooth, you will also need a block plate for a 157 tooth flexplate as well. On a Ford, the thin steel block plate is sandwiched between the back of the block, and the flexplate, and is needed to properly locate the starter in relationship to the flexplates ring gear teeth.If you were to accidentally use a block plate for a 164 tooth flexplate, the starter would be too far away to allow the teeth to engage.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

Since the OD of a 157 tooth flexplate is about 1" smaller than a 164 tooth, you will also need a block plate for a 157 tooth flexplate as well. On a Ford, the thin steel block plate is sandwiched between the back of the block, and the flexplate, and is needed to properly locate the starter in relationship to the flexplates ring gear teeth.If you were to accidentally use a block plate for a 164 tooth flexplate, the starter would be too far away to allow the teeth to engage.

Yes, something else I will need to run down. Ebay would likely be a good place to begin, right?

This plate look correct? http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAVERICK-MUS...42f379&vxp=mtr

Or maybe this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-289-302...ddd3ca&vxp=mtr

[SSGT Mustang]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

You can easily see the difference between the two. I just don't want to blindly buy one and end up with a useless flexplate lying around the garage...I have enough clutter as it is lol.

I hear ya, but you're fine. They are just two different styles. If you look closely, the depth from crank flange to converter flange are the same overall. One just has one step and the other has two. I have used several brands, all with different styles. The JW wheel is just a plate with a thick flange. The depth is the same overall to other brands.

You may want to look at TCI flex plates. They're cheap and SFI approved. You may want to talk to your converter builder first before buying though. They may be able to cut you a deal. If they try to sell you a $300 flex plate for that stocker, then you know you have the wrong builder.

Hope this helps.

[SSGT Mustang]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

Yes, something else I will need to run down. Ebay would likely be a good place to begin, right?

This is the guy you need to buy from. Great quality and $30.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C4-Auto...item56721d5cd4

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by SSGT Mustang

I hear ya, but you're fine. They are just two different styles. If you look closely, the depth from crank flange to converter flange are the same overall. One just has one step and the other has two. I have used several brands, all with different styles. The JW wheel is just a plate with a thick flange. The depth is the same overall to other brands.

You may want to look at TCI flex plates. They're cheap and SFI approved. You may want to talk to your converter builder first before buying though. They may be able to cut you a deal. If they try to sell you a $300 flex plate for that stocker, then you know you have the wrong builder.

Hope this helps.

ATI is who I was looking to for a convertor. They want $295 for their 157T flexplate. I'm going to call Brian Thompson and get the skinny since he uses ATI in his cars.