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#1 |
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I'll have to look into it better, but I did not see a torque reduction table for the shifts as you show here. Last week at Island I dealt with the octane tables having to match, but also had to play with the minimum spark advance table to effectively "lock out" the timing to a total of 29 degrees. This, however is all taken out during the shifts and takes a considerable amount of time to come back in.
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#2 |
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Does the timing go to zero momentarily, when you mat it?
Some of them have that little trick, too.
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#3 |
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It's like a scavenger hunt finding all the nannys. There might be multiple tables throughout controlling the same thing and one may over ride the other. Another thing is to put some good fuel in it and log knock retard, if you see any it's probably false. Start de-sensitizing the knock sensors until it stops pulling timing for no reason.
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I'll be honest. I'm a V8, RWD guy. But what you guys are doing here is what Stock is all about!
Now, about that tire spin, what can be done to eliminate it? FWD is counter-intuitive. |
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A washed-up, loud-mouthed old man who knows nothing about computers teams up with a fresh-faced, wise-*** kid who drives a 5.0 86 Mustang 5 speed with a Holley and they thrash out a totally STOCK, Stock Eliminator car! Wow, a STOCK car in STOCK Eliminator! What a concept! Sounds like a plot for a hit TV show.
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As with a street car with drivability issues there could be some of the same problems with your car. Sweep testing sensors with a meter could see glitches with your hundred thousand mileage plus car. We have seen small problems with map, tp sensor and knock sensor on the wheel dyno. I will tell you peek HP and torque are at 5500 and drop off big after 6000 due to the intake manifold. Also if you have not pulled the flex off the exhaust manifold you will see that it has a reversion cone at that connection. For some reason this motors do not like much timing. Tom
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