New - Lots of Questions. Help me understand S&SS

[james schaechter]

First of all. Welcome to the classracer forum! It is always great to have other racers see stock/superstock and consider taking the plunge! The more the merrier!

This forum has a lot of folks that have been in your shoes and chose to jump in and race stock or superstock so this is a great first step. I would add to the suggestions from those that have class racing experience here. My brother and I bought a 69 Camaro bracket car once and converted it to a SSBS car. Everything in that car was used except the gas and oil! It was a fun car and it took quite a lot of work to reach the index and finally to run under, but we had fun and learned it by taking that journey.

I would research the car to ensure it can fit a category or can be modified to fit on a reasonable fashion first.
Then consider the best fit for a drivetrain that you are interested in and will fit your plans for expenses.
Keep in mind, very few people shoot for the class winner or record setting combo at first.

It is more about at least being able to run the index.

The path you choose as what’s next is entirely up to you of course, not anyone else.

If you can connect with a person or persons at a points meet near you, that would be helpful. Most that run stock super stock can provide a lot of context to the written word of the rule book.

One thing to consider also is FGT. That class would allow an older style car like yours to run different and more modern combinations. There is a real good 360 Mopar engine combo that fits and would not break the bank.

The 383 sounds pretty cool, but I don?t know how reasonable it is to build from a cost standpoint.
I do know that building an index player is going to be many thousands less $$$ than a max effort.

For me, I have always enjoyed working on my cars to make them quicker and faster. Basically more efficient compared to others in my class.

It isn?t for everyone, but I would encourage you to do some research and meet some of the racers in person and see the cars up close. People are very willing to show off their cars.

[Paul Precht]

Originally Posted by LemonWedge

This sounds like the truth. I do NOT have cubic dollars. Bracket racing is fun. But like most car guys, I?m constantly looking for the next thing. Lots of good suggestions here.
So if I?m looking at this correctly, a 1967 Satellite had a shipping weight of 3534. The 383 four barrel, advertised at 325, is factored at 290 with stock 516 heads. This means the weight break number is 12.18, which slots the combo into SS/K, which is an index of 11.25. To be competitive at all, I?d have to have that combo solidly into the 10?s. That seems crazy to me. With stock heads and a 625 cfm AFB.

Also, Am I correct that under the GT class, you can run an engine combination from another year, such as a 440 six barrel setup in a 1967 chassis??

The 915 small valve is a better head than the 516 for stock, in SS the Stg5 head is probably the best option.The 60s 383 AFB which is the same as the 426 Street Wedge can work in Stock but it's a bit too small for any real power in SS. I have tested 2 of them on my flow bench and they flowed 566 and 582, I'm guessing their original rating was 575, the 582 one with a large 65 Monaco air cleaner base flowed 598 CFM. The 440 would need a full cage in SS as a GTX or in GT. If you don't have a cage the 70-71 383 would be best for GT as it can fit GT/LA which is not typically a very populated class. The AVS can flow close to 650 with a good base and the 383 Holleys that I checked were 724 and 746 without putting a base on them, both have the same HP rating in SS with GT being a bit higher. None of these will go .8 under without great heads, big money, Pro trans etc. The 70 383 will go under the index in GT with good heads, intake and ideal cam.

[GTX JOHN]

I have done fairly well with my Superstock Aspen
SS/LA and SS/MA. It usually runs a couple tenths or
less under the index.

However, it always runs at least the index.
I do not remember every having a Heads Up
race in eliminations the last fifteen years. They are few
and far between. It was the late Larry Harroll racecar
that I bought with the engine apart for $3,500.00 from his
Widow after it had been sitting for decades.

As long as you can run the index in bad weather or a strong head
wind there is absolutely no imperative to go any faster except
your personal drive.

My son Jon runs SS/KA in his Duster and may get a heads up
in eliminations once a year. He actually welcomes them but
they are still scarce and hard to find.

John Winslow for many years has run a 426 in SS/JA with good
success and it is saddled with the small Carter and a bigger engine.
than the 383.

There are some workarounds to improve that carb but you would
need to call me in private for info.

[1320racer]

There you go, so in addition to the OP?s car not being legal for stock eliminator, the engine doesn’t have the best/right heads and as for super stock, nothing about his car/combo is right for building a competitive super stocker, no mind the need for “big money” to attempt to do it.

[LemonWedge]

Originally Posted by Paul Precht

The 915 small valve is a better head than the 516 for stock, in SS the Stg5 head is probably the best option.The 60s 383 AFB which is the same as the 426 Street Wedge can work in Stock but it's a bit too small for any real power in SS. I have tested 2 of them on my flow bench and they flowed 566 and 582, I'm guessing their original rating was 575, the 582 one with a large 65 Monaco air cleaner base flowed 598 CFM. The 440 would need a full cage in SS as a GTX or in GT. If you don't have a cage the 70-71 383 would be best for GT as it can fit GT/LA which is not typically a very populated class. The AVS can flow close to 650 with a good base and the 383 Holleys that I checked were 724 and 746 without putting a base on them, both have the same HP rating in SS with GT being a bit higher. None of these will go .8 under without great heads, big money, Pro trans etc. The 70 383 will go under the index in GT with good heads, intake and ideal cam.

Good info. The car is legal to 10.0. It is minitubbed and narrowed; and I?m not changing that, so SS is really the only option.