Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights

Jeff Jewell · 08-06-2013, 02:29 PM

Kevin,

In our Corvettes, we had to bump the line pressure up to around 200 PSI and run 6 clutches to get them to live. Admittedly, this is in a 3300 lb Big Block car, so it's making a little more power than your combo. We have always put the trans in neutral and shut them off. No trans issues from doing that.

Also, and I'm sure I'll hear a lot of arguments about this, don't shift in the burnout. Do the burnout in high gear only. The shift in the burnout is one of the hardest things on the trans. When we started doing that years ago, the trans life increased exponentially. Just make sure the tires are wet and stab the gas. I have done this with all the cars I have driven (fast / slow / big tire / small tire doesn't matter) for years with no issues.

Hope this helps.

Kevin Panzino · 08-06-2013, 08:12 PM

Well, I suppose that may be the case. Strange thing is that I don 'see' any slip... But there could be 1-200 RPM of slip, and I might not notice.. Could be slipping during the shift as well, which I wouldnt really be able to tell, since its a glide, and thus it gets back down on the converter anyway, and it would be hard to tell.

The other thing that I find a bit strange, is that I can get the trans plenty hot, just in warming up the engine in park and not moving the car at all. That makes me think there is something rubbing in the trans even sitting there in park... In the time it takes to get the enging up to 160F, the trans is 150F, just sitting there... Do you folks see the same thing, or is this out of line ???

Kevin

Jody Lang · 08-07-2013, 10:03 AM

175 would be good. Is your pressure gauge accurate? That's what bit me.

There's another way to bump pressure without changing spring if you have access to some other pressure regulator valves. Even a shim if it doesn't already have one.

Building heat while not up against the converter can't be good.

Where's your sender located?

Mike Pearson · 08-07-2013, 09:48 PM

If you have been running steel sealing rings the snout on your pump is probably worn and contributing to the low pressure issue. The first thing to go will be the band will burn up in less than 10 runs. If you notice the car trying to back up when you get on the brake then the band is starting to burn up. This is what was wrong with my car several years back. Coan turned me on to a new pump and valve body and I started using the Teflon seal rings. Coan set my line pressure to 170. I would replace the pump and have a good trans builder like Coan rebuild your valve body. The Teflon seal rings work real good and eliminate the wear in the grooves on the pump snout.

08-06-2013, 02:29 PM	#1
Jeff Jewell Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Bangor, PA Posts: 182 Likes: 41 Liked 171 Times in 36 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Kevin, In our Corvettes, we had to bump the line pressure up to around 200 PSI and run 6 clutches to get them to live. Admittedly, this is in a 3300 lb Big Block car, so it's making a little more power than your combo. We have always put the trans in neutral and shut them off. No trans issues from doing that. Also, and I'm sure I'll hear a lot of arguments about this, don't shift in the burnout. Do the burnout in high gear only. The shift in the burnout is one of the hardest things on the trans. When we started doing that years ago, the trans life increased exponentially. Just make sure the tires are wet and stab the gas. I have done this with all the cars I have driven (fast / slow / big tire / small tire doesn't matter) for years with no issues. Hope this helps.

08-06-2013, 08:12 PM	#2
Kevin Panzino Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 583 Likes: 304 Liked 778 Times in 142 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights Well, I suppose that may be the case. Strange thing is that I don 'see' any slip... But there could be 1-200 RPM of slip, and I might not notice.. Could be slipping during the shift as well, which I wouldnt really be able to tell, since its a glide, and thus it gets back down on the converter anyway, and it would be hard to tell. The other thing that I find a bit strange, is that I can get the trans plenty hot, just in warming up the engine in park and not moving the car at all. That makes me think there is something rubbing in the trans even sitting there in park... In the time it takes to get the enging up to 160F, the trans is 150F, just sitting there... Do you folks see the same thing, or is this out of line ??? Kevin

08-07-2013, 10:03 AM	#3
Jody Lang Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 307 Likes: 28 Liked 92 Times in 29 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights 175 would be good. Is your pressure gauge accurate? That's what bit me. There's another way to bump pressure without changing spring if you have access to some other pressure regulator valves. Even a shim if it doesn't already have one. Building heat while not up against the converter can't be good. Where's your sender located?

08-07-2013, 09:48 PM	#4
Mike Pearson VIP Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,473 Likes: 633 Liked 1,987 Times in 599 Posts	Re: Powerglide damage from 'clicking' engine off in lights If you have been running steel sealing rings the snout on your pump is probably worn and contributing to the low pressure issue. The first thing to go will be the band will burn up in less than 10 runs. If you notice the car trying to back up when you get on the brake then the band is starting to burn up. This is what was wrong with my car several years back. Coan turned me on to a new pump and valve body and I started using the Teflon seal rings. Coan set my line pressure to 170. I would replace the pump and have a good trans builder like Coan rebuild your valve body. The Teflon seal rings work real good and eliminate the wear in the grooves on the pump snout. __________________ Mike Pearson 2485 SS