B/PS lt1 formula

Dan Fahey · 10-09-2013, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by russellauto1

I guess the way I am reading the website, It comes as a package with the burner, Tuner program, and everything that is needed.

Have TunerCat for 94 and 95 PCM..

Also use Byran Herter at PCMforLess.

They have a Dyno Facility near Quaker in Ohio and Farmington in North Carolina.

May want to ping Ed Wright on the Class Racer

D

chris ok · 10-09-2013, 07:03 PM

I'd speak to the man Ed Wright who posted above.
He is very knowledgeable from what I have read here.

ss3011 · 10-09-2013, 07:35 PM

1993 was the only year that had a 700-R4 (4L60) but not the "e" version. Also the engine did not use a MAF sensor. When did IHRA drop the requirement that the correct part number camshaft be used ?

Dan Fahey · 10-09-2013, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ss3011

1993 was the only year that had a 700-R4 (4L60) but not the "e" version. Also the engine did not use a MAF sensor. When did IHRA drop the requirement that the correct part number camshaft be used ?

I do not know that answer on the camshaft.
Mike Baker confirmed the rule in the IHRA book.
And model cam for my Impala SS

D

ss3011 · 10-09-2013, 10:58 PM

I should have read the rule book before I commented on the camshaft question. The rule is " aftermarket cams allowed per horsepower claimed. Must check on or under factory specs for lift, duration, and overlap. "

This is like how NHRA stock class rules were back in the early 80's . That information along with the checking clearances was in the engine specs. Now all that is checked is lift. The duration, overlap, and checking clearances are not published anymore. I would bet NHRA doesn't even require that info from the OEM's , just the lift .

I remember back awhile a guy was trying to race a car in Pure Stock, and asked where to get those specs. I don't remember if he ever got a resolution.

KennyAnderson · 10-10-2013, 04:59 AM

Morning Russell,

I am the guy building the 93 Z-28. Just getting started as a matter of fact. Bought the car from a local guy who was already racing it in no-e here at home. All it has is a mail order chip in it. According to Jim Woods it is a natural C/PS although I plan on dropping down to D. I don't think I could get it light enough to really be a factor in B. As it sits its 100 lbs over for D mainly due to the nut behind the wheel, me. When my son takes over we will be good for C. This car is for him when he is done with JR's next season. I just bought an FTI 3800 stall converter and lock-up eliminator kit (Sorry Dan. Good friends w/ Greg and Troy Williams @ FTI and they made me a killer deal). Lock-up removes 6 lbs of rotating mass from the converter and this car wont see much if any street time. I was looking for more stall but with a max power @ around 5500 more than one guy felt like it would be to close to power levels on the shift fall back. I plan on putting in 4.10 gears and have some headers coming. I will use some small flowmasters and put dumps under the car. This should make a tad bit more power but more importantly cuts 50 lbs of junk removing the X pipe/cats/over the rear exhaust. The car runs 9.oh's and teens in the eigth right now so I need 7 tenths just to play since D has an 8.50 index. Hoping to make the IHRA race in Lakeland in a couple weeks but time is running low and I am busy as a 1 armed paper hanger. Plan on getting converter in and all a/c heater stuff out next week. I'll keep you posted and look forward to checking out your build.

russellauto1 · 10-10-2013, 07:32 AM

THANKS kenny, That is some Great information. I was kinda looking at the same converter, but wasn't sure of the stall. I was leaning towards 4.10 or 4.56. I am still gonna use 7.5 rear axle but weld axle tubes, rear support and some other modds that some of the mustang guys do. As far as the exhaust, right now I have shorty headers with a aftermarket y pipe. Gonna do some research on what I can do there. I think I am going to leave a/c on cr for now. Just so I can make weight and cool off. What wheels are you going to run? I am unsure of the rear back spacing I should get. But I may get some 16" so I can put drag radials on the rear. Thanks for the info from Everyone and Keep it coming. It makes me think a little hard!!!

Dan Fahey · 10-10-2013, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KennyAnderson

Morning Russell,

I am the guy building the 93 Z-28. Just getting started as a matter of fact. Bought the car from a local guy who was already racing it in no-e here at home. All it has is a mail order chip in it. According to Jim Woods it is a natural C/PS although I plan on dropping down to D. I don't think I could get it light enough to really be a factor in B. As it sits its 100 lbs over for D mainly due to the nut behind the wheel, me. When my son takes over we will be good for C. This car is for him when he is done with JR's next season. I just bought an FTI 3800 stall converter and lock-up eliminator kit (Sorry Dan. Good friends w/ Greg and Troy Williams @ FTI and they made me a killer deal). Lock-up removes 6 lbs of rotating mass from the converter and this car wont see much if any street time. I was looking for more stall but with a max power @ around 5500 more than one guy felt like it would be to close to power levels on the shift fall back. I plan on putting in 4.10 gears and have some headers coming. I will use some small flowmasters and put dumps under the car. This should make a tad bit more power but more importantly cuts 50 lbs of junk removing the X pipe/cats/over the rear exhaust. The car runs 9.oh's and teens in the eigth right now so I need 7 tenths just to play since D has an 8.50 index. Hoping to make the IHRA race in Lakeland in a couple weeks but time is running low and I am busy as a 1 armed paper hanger. Plan on getting converter in and all a/c heater stuff out next week. I'll keep you posted and look forward to checking out your build.

No Problem Kenny:
Having drivability issues with mine.
Want to make Lakeland too by taking the Auto Train to Sanford.

You made the better choice.
There are a whole lot of local guys my converter would work better for.
FWIW.. with a IHRA approves cam you could have gone to 4200 stall.
However if the 3800 stall if it flashes to 4600 you will be fine..

Dan

10-09-2013, 07:03 PM	#2
chris ok Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Long Island, New york Posts: 592 Likes: 131 Liked 46 Times in 29 Posts	Re: B/PS lt1 formula I'd speak to the man Ed Wright who posted above. He is very knowledgeable from what I have read here.

10-09-2013, 07:35 PM	#3
ss3011 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Southeast Michigan Posts: 909 Likes: 70 Liked 239 Times in 114 Posts	Re: B/PS lt1 formula 1993 was the only year that had a 700-R4 (4L60) but not the "e" version. Also the engine did not use a MAF sensor. When did IHRA drop the requirement that the correct part number camshaft be used ?

10-09-2013, 10:58 PM	#5
ss3011 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Southeast Michigan Posts: 909 Likes: 70 Liked 239 Times in 114 Posts	Re: B/PS lt1 formula I should have read the rule book before I commented on the camshaft question. The rule is " aftermarket cams allowed per horsepower claimed. Must check on or under factory specs for lift, duration, and overlap. " This is like how NHRA stock class rules were back in the early 80's . That information along with the checking clearances was in the engine specs. Now all that is checked is lift. The duration, overlap, and checking clearances are not published anymore. I would bet NHRA doesn't even require that info from the OEM's , just the lift . I remember back awhile a guy was trying to race a car in Pure Stock, and asked where to get those specs. I don't remember if he ever got a resolution.

10-10-2013, 04:59 AM	#6
KennyAnderson Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Posts: 290 Likes: 38 Liked 357 Times in 119 Posts	Re: B/PS lt1 formula Morning Russell, I am the guy building the 93 Z-28. Just getting started as a matter of fact. Bought the car from a local guy who was already racing it in no-e here at home. All it has is a mail order chip in it. According to Jim Woods it is a natural C/PS although I plan on dropping down to D. I don't think I could get it light enough to really be a factor in B. As it sits its 100 lbs over for D mainly due to the nut behind the wheel, me. When my son takes over we will be good for C. This car is for him when he is done with JR's next season. I just bought an FTI 3800 stall converter and lock-up eliminator kit (Sorry Dan. Good friends w/ Greg and Troy Williams @ FTI and they made me a killer deal). Lock-up removes 6 lbs of rotating mass from the converter and this car wont see much if any street time. I was looking for more stall but with a max power @ around 5500 more than one guy felt like it would be to close to power levels on the shift fall back. I plan on putting in 4.10 gears and have some headers coming. I will use some small flowmasters and put dumps under the car. This should make a tad bit more power but more importantly cuts 50 lbs of junk removing the X pipe/cats/over the rear exhaust. The car runs 9.oh's and teens in the eigth right now so I need 7 tenths just to play since D has an 8.50 index. Hoping to make the IHRA race in Lakeland in a couple weeks but time is running low and I am busy as a 1 armed paper hanger. Plan on getting converter in and all a/c heater stuff out next week. I'll keep you posted and look forward to checking out your build.

10-10-2013, 07:32 AM	#7
russellauto1 Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 150 Likes: 2 Liked 35 Times in 6 Posts	Re: B/PS lt1 formula THANKS kenny, That is some Great information. I was kinda looking at the same converter, but wasn't sure of the stall. I was leaning towards 4.10 or 4.56. I am still gonna use 7.5 rear axle but weld axle tubes, rear support and some other modds that some of the mustang guys do. As far as the exhaust, right now I have shorty headers with a aftermarket y pipe. Gonna do some research on what I can do there. I think I am going to leave a/c on cr for now. Just so I can make weight and cool off. What wheels are you going to run? I am unsure of the rear back spacing I should get. But I may get some 16" so I can put drag radials on the rear. Thanks for the info from Everyone and Keep it coming. It makes me think a little hard!!!