Bellhousing

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by b.guggenmos

Nice big window. What trans are you running with that bell? I heard the depth is for a T5 and that is different than a Jerico?

So is mine Brian. Any SB Ford application using the FOX style cable clutch needs to use the longer T5 input shaft and deeper bellhousing to have enough room for it to all fit. The Jerico for my FE has an input shaft that is about an inch shorter than the one for my small block. You just order the correct input (or trans) from Jerico for your application. That is how both my Jericos came to have the correct length input shafts and tip dimensions for my Fords, but have the MoPar "Hemi" 18 spline configuration, which allows me to use the small input Ford throw out bearing and fork.
Jerry, thats a great looking bellhousing, does McLeod have those in stock for SB Fords? My steel McLeod bell is coming due for a re cert, less weight and a window would sure be nice. Does yours have provision for both the 157 and 164 tooth flywheel and starter?

[JHeath]

I bought it from Jegs, a 164 tooth flywheel will fit. part # is 8560T

[Jim Caughlin]

I run a Quicktime SBF bellhousing, I would guess looking at the picture of the McLeod that they would be comparable in weight. For sure the Lakewood unit is way heavier and also considerably dimensionally larger. In the case of the Quicktime, they only fit the 157 tooth, not the larger 164. Also, Quicktime used to be a pretty good price, after they got bought out, the price virtually doubles, as I recall the SBF unit is around $600. No complaints with the quality though.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

[JohnRoderick]

Originally Posted by JHeath

I bought the McLeod SBF bellhousing for my 93 Mustang stocker, it is really nice, thinking of using it on my CJ project. I am not sure about the fork, the stock mustang cable will work, haven't really looked at what I will need for mechanical linkage.

Can you or anyone else that has used this bellhousing comment on how easy it is for you to set the air gap with the inspection window that far back?

Thanks,
John

[Shadylane]

Originally Posted by JohnRoderick

Can you or anyone else that has used this bellhousing comment on how easy it is for you to set the air gap with the inspection window that far back?

Thanks,
John

Checking the air gap requires an extra hole drilled between the window and the mounting surface. Mine is at the 6 o'clock position. I use long machinist feeler gauges to reach the disc.

Kelly

[Jim Caughlin]

Regarding air gap, yes you have to drill a hole to check clearance and also note that after you drill the hole, you have voided getting the bellhousing recertified. As you are mainly looking for the minimum air gap, I have a round rod (that is the minimum gap diameter) that fits through the hole easier, I ground it to a point at the end so it will slide into position easier. Bear in mind that if you are shifting without the clutch (which pretty much everyone is) that air gap is not that big of a deal, mainly I use it as a delay box for fine tuning reaction time.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

[JohnRoderick]

I assume you are drilling a hole through the liner too. If so, are you worried about compromising the integrity of the liner?

Are you also saying that other than RT, the air gap does not impact performance at launch? So RT aside, there is no difference between launching with 0.030" and 0.060" air gap?

Originally Posted by Jim Caughlin

Regarding air gap, yes you have to drill a hole to check clearance and also note that after you drill the hole, you have voided getting the bellhousing recertified. As you are mainly looking for the minimum air gap, I have a round rod (that is the minimum gap diameter) that fits through the hole easier, I ground it to a point at the end so it will slide into position easier. Bear in mind that if you are shifting without the clutch (which pretty much everyone is) that air gap is not that big of a deal, mainly I use it as a delay box for fine tuning reaction time.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

[Jim Caughlin]

When you go to full RPM on the starting line, the counterweights are going to close up some of the air gap which is why you need the gap in the first place. Also the reason why you need extra gap in the bellhousing for the throw out brg, otherwise the brg would start contacting the counterweight fingers at high RPM. Even with the line lock set, if the air gap is too tight, you can feel it tugging on the brakes, early disc failure at least. If you have the minimum reqd air gap, it's just a matter of RT from there. I always state my disclaimer: your results may vary...

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

[john lemoine]

hey jerry on another note did you find someone to make you headers on you cobra jet project thanks john lemoine

[J&S Racing]

Originally Posted by james schaechter

If you get a chance to weigh it please post or let me know the actual bellhousing weight and block save weight?

They advertise 13.5lbs. I tossed it on my crappy bathroom scale and it's close.

It's definitely a nice piece and I'll cover the install in my build thread.

Probably not the smartest idea to build a A/B stick car when I have limited knowledge about clutches but we have a few people to help sort me out.

After reading this tread it got my mind going. I thought the point of the window was for adjustments and setting air gap but with guys saying they still had to drill a hole got me thinking......... are you guys really drilling these holes and voiding getting it re certified or is there another way to set the gap??

Oh, another thing speaking of clutch forks......I didn't even think to ask Brian what the offered but from what I see online they only offer a factory style fork. I did some searching and came across a set up from Bickle that does away with the pivot ball and uses a heim joint. Would this be legal?