Bellhousing

JohnRoderick · 11-13-2017, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHeath

I bought the McLeod SBF bellhousing for my 93 Mustang stocker, it is really nice, thinking of using it on my CJ project. I am not sure about the fork, the stock mustang cable will work, haven't really looked at what I will need for mechanical linkage.

Can you or anyone else that has used this bellhousing comment on how easy it is for you to set the air gap with the inspection window that far back?

Thanks,
John

Shadylane · 11-13-2017, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnRoderick

Can you or anyone else that has used this bellhousing comment on how easy it is for you to set the air gap with the inspection window that far back?

Thanks,
John

Checking the air gap requires an extra hole drilled between the window and the mounting surface. Mine is at the 6 o'clock position. I use long machinist feeler gauges to reach the disc.

Kelly

Jim Caughlin · 11-14-2017, 11:42 AM

Regarding air gap, yes you have to drill a hole to check clearance and also note that after you drill the hole, you have voided getting the bellhousing recertified. As you are mainly looking for the minimum air gap, I have a round rod (that is the minimum gap diameter) that fits through the hole easier, I ground it to a point at the end so it will slide into position easier. Bear in mind that if you are shifting without the clutch (which pretty much everyone is) that air gap is not that big of a deal, mainly I use it as a delay box for fine tuning reaction time.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

JohnRoderick · 11-14-2017, 12:48 PM

I assume you are drilling a hole through the liner too. If so, are you worried about compromising the integrity of the liner?

Are you also saying that other than RT, the air gap does not impact performance at launch? So RT aside, there is no difference between launching with 0.030" and 0.060" air gap?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Caughlin

Regarding air gap, yes you have to drill a hole to check clearance and also note that after you drill the hole, you have voided getting the bellhousing recertified. As you are mainly looking for the minimum air gap, I have a round rod (that is the minimum gap diameter) that fits through the hole easier, I ground it to a point at the end so it will slide into position easier. Bear in mind that if you are shifting without the clutch (which pretty much everyone is) that air gap is not that big of a deal, mainly I use it as a delay box for fine tuning reaction time.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

Jim Caughlin · 11-14-2017, 03:06 PM

When you go to full RPM on the starting line, the counterweights are going to close up some of the air gap which is why you need the gap in the first place. Also the reason why you need extra gap in the bellhousing for the throw out brg, otherwise the brg would start contacting the counterweight fingers at high RPM. Even with the line lock set, if the air gap is too tight, you can feel it tugging on the brakes, early disc failure at least. If you have the minimum reqd air gap, it's just a matter of RT from there. I always state my disclaimer: your results may vary...

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

11-14-2017, 11:42 AM	#3
Jim Caughlin Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Woodburn, Or Posts: 685 Likes: 82 Liked 805 Times in 245 Posts	Re: Bellhousing Regarding air gap, yes you have to drill a hole to check clearance and also note that after you drill the hole, you have voided getting the bellhousing recertified. As you are mainly looking for the minimum air gap, I have a round rod (that is the minimum gap diameter) that fits through the hole easier, I ground it to a point at the end so it will slide into position easier. Bear in mind that if you are shifting without the clutch (which pretty much everyone is) that air gap is not that big of a deal, mainly I use it as a delay box for fine tuning reaction time. Jim Caughlin SS 6019

11-14-2017, 03:06 PM	#5
Jim Caughlin Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Woodburn, Or Posts: 685 Likes: 82 Liked 805 Times in 245 Posts	Re: Bellhousing When you go to full RPM on the starting line, the counterweights are going to close up some of the air gap which is why you need the gap in the first place. Also the reason why you need extra gap in the bellhousing for the throw out brg, otherwise the brg would start contacting the counterweight fingers at high RPM. Even with the line lock set, if the air gap is too tight, you can feel it tugging on the brakes, early disc failure at least. If you have the minimum reqd air gap, it's just a matter of RT from there. I always state my disclaimer: your results may vary... Jim Caughlin SS 6019