Disc Brake Conversion

[Mark Ruset]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

If I'm not mistaken Aerospace offers some soft pads which might make a difference in holding on the line, but it's just conjecture on my part. http://shop.aerospacecomponents.com/...brakepads.aspx

I spoke with one of the tech guys at Aerospace. Their position is to use the 4 piston calibers on the front and to convert the drums in the rear to their disc set up. They felt the car would not stop as well as the drums currently on the car now by only converting to front discs. They also said that it's critical to get the right pedal ratio.

[Chad Rhodes]

Originally Posted by Mark Ruset

I spoke with one of the tech guys at Aerospace. Their position is to use the 4 piston calibers on the front and to convert the drums in the rear to their disc set up. They felt the car would not stop as well as the drums currently on the car now by only converting to front discs. They also said that it's critical to get the right pedal ratio.

Mark, we've got aerospace on both our cars, only problem we've had was one caliper leaked between the halves, they overnighted us another one.

[Peter Ash]

Mark


I had the "Push through the beams problem (2500rpm on 2 step)" as I struggled to get 750lbs., brake pressure with my hand controls. I changed my MC to a 1.030 bore piece and increased my pedal ratio to 7.4:1. Wah lah, 1200+ psi pressure with hand controls, and no more pushing through the beams. Using your leg would probably bury the gauge on my car.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Mark Ruset

I spoke with one of the tech guys at Aerospace. Their position is to use the 4 piston calibers on the front and to convert the drums in the rear to their disc set up. They felt the car would not stop as well as the drums currently on the car now by only converting to front discs. They also said that it's critical to get the right pedal ratio.

I'm committed at this point to the 2-piston in the front and 4-piston in the rear...will see how it works out. Will also be using the Strange 1.032 master cylinder.

[Greg Hill]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

I'm committed at this point to the 2-piston in the front and 4-piston in the rear...will see how it works out. Will also be using the Strange 1.032 master cylinder.

Those 2piston fronts are for a really light car, 2400lbs or less. I have never seen them on a stocker. We have 4wheel aerospace on both my car and Andrew's and have had no problems. I can hold my car at 4000 plus rpm's on the starting line.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Greg Hill

Those 2piston fronts are for a really light car, 2400lbs or less. I have never seen them on a stocker. We have 4wheel aerospace on both my car and Andrew's and have had no problems. I can hold my car at 4000 plus rpm's on the starting line.

None the less, they are already on the car and I will give them a chance. I don't envision using anywhere near 4000rpm on the starting line.

[Jody Lang]

Originally Posted by Mark Ruset

Thanks for your reply Jody, can you elaborate on your comment on what does it take to hold a car on the starting line? My only issues is the starting line, if I get up on the convertor much more than 2200 the car wants to push through the beams. the car on the top end stops well.

2200 is very low for drums to say the least. Discs will be a safer system (no pulling to one side). You still should be able to stall a drum setup higher than a disc.

[Mark Ruset]

Originally Posted by Greg Hill

Those 2piston fronts are for a really light car, 2400lbs or less. I have never seen them on a stocker. We have 4wheel aerospace on both my car and Andrew's and have had no problems. I can hold my car at 4000 plus rpm's on the starting line.

Greg that just what I wanted to hear, both cars are very competitive and I'm sure if there was a better product out there you would use it

[Mark Ruset]

Originally Posted by Jody Lang

2200 is very low for drums to say the least. Discs will be a safer system (no pulling to one side). You still should be able to stall a drum setup higher than a disc.

Thanks Jody for the reply, I am still using the OE style master cylinder, there within is part of my problem. I will be changing the master cylinder when I do the disc conversion

[Grant Eldridge]

Originally Posted by Jody Lang

Going to a 4 wheel disc set up will not help your starting line issues. What you're explaining is how I would explain 4 wheel discs. Stops great, but doesn't hold very good on the starting line.

This was my experience as well with my 1967 Camaro E/SA car as well as my 1970 Nova. Both cars were originally 6 cylinder manual brake cars. I rebuilt the complete system including wheel cylinders, master cylinder, springs, etc but they are only small 9 1/2" x 2 1/2" brakes( from memory). Nevertheless, I could hold the car on the line and launch at 3400-3500 with no problems. My cars were big block, but stopped fine as well. On the other hand, my buddy with his '70's Camaro and factory disc front setup could not hold his car on the line above 2200. He tried 3 different sizes of master cylinders, lots of time and effort trying to solve the problem.
From what others have posted, sounds like you really need to get the right sizing of calipers and parts if you choose to go the disc route, not the super light stuff. I was not convinced that the weight saving over the 9 1/2" drums was worth the considerable cost, especially considering the starting line issues some have mentioned , just my experience, hope it works out for you...
Grant Eldridge
E/SA 6650