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#1 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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i was not aware that stainless could take a double flair |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Fulton County, PA
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I've done some nitrous plumbing in SS. It can be double flared if it is annealed. Requires a good flaring tool. Some people feel it doesn't need to be double flared for brake lines, although I don't agree. Probably overkill for most unless you want to polish it for a show car look.
I haven't used it in a long time. I prefer the old style "Bundyflex" zinc coated steel. Harder than the CuNi and green coated stuff. But not so much so that it is miserable to work. If appearances matter, it can be cleaned up with some fine scotch brite and WD40 to a nice satin look. |
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#3 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,168
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i am using the bundyflex. |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Elysburg, Pa
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Brake lines are a pleasure with this.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Fulton County, PA
Posts: 614
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Verrry South Jersey
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I've been using an old Imperial, similar to this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18551982762...Cclp%3A2047675
I just learned something this past year. I was having a hard time stopping a new double flare from leaking. After googling, I found out if you don't quite finish the second flare, when you tighten the flare nut, it will "finish" itself. I.E. the flare will finish forming as you tighten it against the seat. Presto! After making several flares, including making a new line when it got too short, using this technique, it sealed on the first try. Maybe this is common info, but I thought I'd mention it. |
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