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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Fulton County, PA
Posts: 539
Likes: 9
Liked 760 Times in 211 Posts
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Verrry South Jersey
Posts: 532
Likes: 127
Liked 229 Times in 121 Posts
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I've been using an old Imperial, similar to this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/18551982762...Cclp%3A2047675
I just learned something this past year. I was having a hard time stopping a new double flare from leaking. After googling, I found out if you don't quite finish the second flare, when you tighten the flare nut, it will "finish" itself. I.E. the flare will finish forming as you tighten it against the seat. Presto! After making several flares, including making a new line when it got too short, using this technique, it sealed on the first try. Maybe this is common info, but I thought I'd mention it. |
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#23 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 675
Likes: 142
Liked 72 Times in 40 Posts
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Faster classes require steel. I do highly recommend very good support for the rear brake lines. I have had a flare break in the flare nut at the caliper due to vibration. |
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#24 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 16
Likes: 38
Liked 32 Times in 9 Posts
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I have a flaring kit I got from Inline Tube. It will double flare stainless brake line without annealing. I have done lots of show cars and some race cars with this. Most race cars I do 37 degree with tube nuts and sleeves. I love this tool!! Part # TLF08 and the 37 degree dies are seperate. Stainless lines and some Kugel Komponents line clamps are the bomb!!
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#25 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 101
Likes: 86
Liked 62 Times in 17 Posts
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I have the same kit with 45 degree dies. I've only used it on steel lines, but it works great. |
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